sounds like ur shooting the parts shot gun at it haha if ur pulling a lean code and idling bad i would take a closer look at the iac ( idle air control valve) but by stepping on the on the gas and it boggin the iac would have no effect on it so it could be somthing else if you can test the voltage on your map sensor to see if its reading unmeterd air in the intake that will give you a idea about a vac leak or if the sensor is ****ting the bed you can also take a peak at ur egr valve it could be sticking open that would give u a rough idle

 

I replacedthe ignition module a few years ago when I used to drive it everyday, haven't since then.
Where is the egr valve?

 

I haven't had any time to mess with it for a couple weeks. I'm not sure where the egr valve is, and I've also had people mention the ECM, and i'm not sure what that is either. I still need to replace the fuel pressure regulator and O2 sensors from the original list, then if that doesn't work go after ecm or egr?

 

ecm is the engine control modual or the main computer also known as a main brain box. egr should be behind the tb, bolted to the intake manifold.

 

I know it's been awhile, but yesterday I finally got a vacuum gun to check the egr valve, its ok. At this point I need to decide if I should go fuel pressure regulator (on list of stuff I got from the diagnostic), or if I should replace the ECM. Craby, I know you said that the shop probably was telling me the truth with all the stuff that was wrong, but do you think its possible that the ecm is bad and made all those other things appear to be malfunctioning, or should I go with the fuel pressure regulator and the O2 sensors to complete the list they gave me? I've decided one of these has got to be the next thing I go for, but I don't know which one makes the most sense.Any help is appreciated, I've got to be getting close I'm running out of options!

 

yep go for the fuel pressure regulator. its looking like a fuel issue. starving for gas. the only other thing i can think of would be in the dist. not advancing the spark. put a timing light on it and see if its advancing when u bring the rpms up.

 

Thanks. I put a new cap and rotor on it about a month ago, but I'll still check the timing like you suggest, and the fuel pressure regulator is what I'll go after. Do you know of any way to test those, if so any particular tools? Or should I just take that one off and replace it?

 

is it hard to start and run really rich? when my fuel pressure regulator went, it had no prior sysmptoms, it just quit. the car would only start with the gas to the floor and i couldnt let off the gas or it would die. it would cough out smoke and had a stream of unburned gas from the tail pipes. however if your does not have that, it may not be the fuel pressure regulator, but it cant be completely ruled out

 

kid hes getting a lean code. aj do a fuel pressure test and a leak down on it. u want to test it with the key on engine off, with the engine running at idle, with engine running at wot for a second of coarse, with engine running at 2.5 to 3k for a few seconds, and leaving the tester hooked up and turning the motor off and let it set for an hour watching for a minute or two and checking every ten minutes for any droping of the prussure. write the readings down as u do it for referance. to answer the ecu/ecm ? yes it could be the problem also the prom,... if u have one. u know the ignition moduals do sometimes go out after a short time. i saved mine after changing it and finding it not to be the issue. keep it in the glove box just in case. around moisture on the gillnetters they go more often so most all the guys keep a spare on board.

 

What did you mean by leak down? Also you said test it with engine running at wot. what's wot? wide open throttle? I'm not sure what the prom is, or how to test it.Do you know what the fuel pressure should be or how to test it? I'm going to call the parts store to see if they have any loaner tools to help with such a task.