This is not a TBI....just dont want anyone to get confused. I have a fairly normal carberator that has two electrical plug ins on the drivers side of the carb. If I unplug them, the check engine light comes on and the car dies.

What I am trying to do is bypass the electrical part of this carb....kinda going old school. The ECM of this car is not working properly and instead of buying alot of new electrical parts, I decided to just bypass them all together. Now, my question is.....If I unplug these connections, can I adjust the carberator manually to run like an earlier model? I have already bypassed most everything else, but just cant seem to figure out how to unplug the connections on the carb without making it die. Are there certain wires within these connections I can "jump" together to make the ECM think it is plugged in? Can the carb be adjusted correctly manually once this is done?

 

The e2se carb (or some different configuration of those letters???) Those connectors are the Throttle position sensor and the other is for the air/fuel ratio. Everything works in conjuction together. You do away with stuff you will have nothing to adjust your ignition timing or set a proper a/f ratio at idle to part throttle. I know for sure there were S10s' in the early years that had non computer carbs and distributers. I thought Camaros' would also. I do have a computer for a California model S10 with a 700R4 that I could send you for the cost of shipping. Or check your local parts store for a computer and prom. They should be fairly cheap.

 

the other option is just throught a regular carb on it and adjust it manually, and a oldschool distributor so u can do it manually too.

 

Well, not really what I wanted to hear.....but what can you do.

I dont think the computer and prom that you have will work for my car. I have a 5spd tranny and dont think it is Cali emissions. I do appriciate your offer though. I have been messing with the single screw that is located on the bottom of the carb at the front, trying to get the idle as good as possible. So far, I have it set where it will idle fairly well but it dont want to "go" until it gets warm. It acts like it is starving for air and waits til the choke butterfly opens enough to put it in gear and drive.

I have plugged the "air pump/decel valve", "vacuum sensor"and "egr selonoid" at the carb as well as all the "breather" hoses. I ran a vacuum line straight from the front vacuum port of the carb to the egr valve itself. Even if I connected everything the way it should be (and I have), it runs alot worse than what I got it now. The check engine light doesnt and hasnt come on at all, unless I unplug either elect lines from the carb. I am just trying to avoid "throwing" alot of electrical parts at it in hopes it will eventually run correctly.....I would just rather "old school" it.

 

Do you think there is a problem with a part on your carb? The Tghrottle position sensor is fairly cheap but needs the carbs top to come off to install it. The A/F soleniod has a rubber o-ring on the tip that comes off or rots away. That could be a problem. I used to have one of those carbs but got tired of looking at it and threw it away.

 

To be honest, I am not sure what part where is wrong with it........it could be the egr solenoid, egr valve itself, sensors attached to the breather, old worn out carb that has a vacuum leak internally, or one of the sensors you refered to. With no check engine light coming on and no codes to tell me what part to look at.....I honestly dont know.

Again, we're looking at "throwing" parts at it until we get it right.......and that takes money, money that I cant readily afford.

If I yank the distributor and carb and replace both with old style vacuum operated advances and such, then I can eliminate every single sensor including the junk *** computer module. Now what I need to know is what carb to buy that will fit my intake, and what distributor that will fit.....but the distributor still needs some sort of ignition module in it (obviously) and leads to attach my tach (whenever I get it going).

If you know exactly what part, or maybe a couple CHEAP parts I can buy to put in my current carb that will fix it.....I will gladly do that, but I cant afford to pay a certified technician labor charges to tell me what's wrong with it.

All of your efforts are greatly appriciated and all opinions are welcome......I'm just a single guy that is trying to work for peanuts, pay rent, eat and still try to fix an old car.

 

I know where you are coming from. I am a single guy with a long story that ends in a zero income. Luckily I had taken care of my car before my current situation came about. Unfortunatly I can't say the same about my Ducati sitting in the garage.[&o]

The non electric carb is a 2SE It looks almost exactly like the carb you have now. I do believ Holley makes a replacment also. Maybe even Weber. There are also non computer distributers for the 60 degree V6s'. I have seen out of state S10's with both the non computer carb and dizzy. But that is gonna run money. If you have a volt/ohm meter amoung a few other tools I can look and maybe scan and email you some diagnostic flow charts from older Chiltons (before they became worthless haynes on the inside). That wayyou can check stuff out. If I coulddiagnose cars over the web and get it right the first time I would sit here in my underwear and do it!
At this point I don't even knowhow your car is acting up. You could have a bad vacuum ported switch,EGR need cleaning, plugged fuel filter, bad plug wire(s)...... anything.

 

Well, the plugs and wires are new. The "Haynes" manual says the EGR valve cannot be tested via vacuum pump (which I do have one) and I have tried pushing up on the inside of the valve and it is rock solid, dont move and actually doesnt feel like it should move. I have delt with quite a few egr valves in my life, and this one doesnt feel the same underneath. I am a Maytag repairman, so yes I do have a few tools and a volt/ohm meter. I would greatly appriciate any and all diagrams and information you could send.

As for the ported vacuum switches being bad.....it is a good possibility that the ported switch mounted on the rear of the breather is bad. I have a vacuum diagram for this car and originally hooked everything up the way the diagram showed. The secondary choke pulloff is hooked to the ported switch on the breather and when the car started, it immediately pulled vacuum and pulled the secondary pulloff totally closed, causing the choke plate to open almost completely.....rendering the choke useless. On that same ported switch was the breather "fresh air" opening at the snorkle.....it also pulled completely closed when you started the car, causing no fresh air to enter the carb. Even after the car warmed up, that switch continued pulling the same vacuum. In short, yes that is one of the ported switches that is bad (I am almost certain). As for the fuel filter, after the car gets warm, you can hit all five gears while pressing the gas pedal and have plenty of "get up and go"......only after it is at operating temp though.

Again.....if you have diagrams and test's I can perform before BLOWING money......that would be awsome.

 

Your egr and vacuum switches all sound as if they are bad. When I tested an egr and was to lazy to use a vacuum gauge the first thing I would do is to remove the hose. Push up on the inside, It is suposed to move, then while its up put my thunb over the nipple where the hose was. If the inside dropped it was bad. If its stuck maybe its a lot of carbon build up and maybe can be removed and cleaned. It sounds like it would have to be removed and maybe replaced anyway. If I read right it sounds like your ported switches are not working either.
PM me with an email addy and I will scan some things from my books (may be some S10 stuff also) that may help.
And I may call upon you with some water heater problem. My mom bought a new one a few years back and ever since she had it about every 10 months a thermo switch that goes on the regulator goes bad. She has never been able to get any warrenty work on it because of poor customer service and it has a 10 year warrenty.

 

I need to ask a couple favors please.......[/align][/align]I am going to take your advise and replace some parts to see if I can get it running to OEM way. The 3 port vacuum switch mounted on the back of the breather....can you tell me where the vacuum hoses go? [/align][/align]Also, the electric A/F that is mounted on the top of the carb via three torx screws.....Can you tell me the exact part name? I am trying to look it up via AutoZone or Orielly's but I cant find it.[/align][/align]I also tested the EGR valve while it was on the car and the middle does push up, but it is hard to press up and when I plug the vacuum hose hole it does not hold vacuum. When I took it off, there was alot of carbon build up on it and inside the hole where it mounts. I cleaned the inside hole up via carb cleaner and am going to replace the valve itself. While I am at it, I am also going to replace the EGR solenoid. [/align][/align]Also, is there a way I can test the "fast idle solenoid"? I believe it is mounted on the front passenger side of the carb, near the primary pulloff. It may or may not need to be replaced, I just need to test it to find out. Sorry for being so long winded, just trying to cover most all the bases. thanx.[/align]