If the push rod could have gotten to the front of the motor their are two holes for the oil to drain back. This is only a guess but if the push rod did get there it would have a chance of being cliped off by the top cam sprocked then dropping to the lower part of the crank area and then being propelled like a rocket to the pan. With the idea of a lifter popping out and the having the push rod chewed up by the cam is another night mair.

 

I'm not sure the timing gears and chain could cut a pushrod off cleanly. I think it broke first, and then the piece dropped either through the front or rear oil return hole. I suspect the rear hole only because the engine is tilted up in front slightly, and oil tends to drain more to the rear than front, but it sure could go the front route. Bottom of the timing cover is wide open to the pan until it reaches the crankshaft.
I'll be watching your thread to see what you find when you get inside the engine!

 

unfortunetly its going to be a little while before i am able to get it torn apart, i am waiting to close on my house and crashing with a friend until then. And my car is in the parking garage at his apartment, so i cant tear it apart in there. As soon as i get it into my house im sure i will have many more questions. This is going to be my first build.

 

Since money is tight at the moment............you could flush the oil passages, replace the pan with a new one, install another push rod, and fill it with new oil so you can fire up the engine to see if there are any knocks or other noises that shouldn't be there. If the oil pressure is good and there is no noises, let it warm up and take it for a easy drive to check it out. If it doesn't have and oil gauge, by all means put one on it BEFORE you fire it up. A stock engine cold should have at least 30-50 psi oil pressure and after warming up to normal water temperature a minimum of 20 psi oil pressure. anything less, shut it off and park it till fixed.