No Crank No Fire 1981 z28
Hey everyone,
So I have a 1981 z28 that I have been restoring. I recently had it running, but than replaced the intake manifold and than it would only crank no fire. So I was searching around and noticed the grounding strap on top of the alternator was super hot. I replaced my sparkplugs again to see the brand new plugs were shot and I am thinking it was the alternator that shorted it out (I am sure the distributor was timed correctly and working properly). so I went to oreillys to return my brand new alternator since the bearings were also bad. but after I had already turned it in their manager gave it back and was saying it definitely wasn't the alternator it was ignition switch or the neutral safety switch. now it doesn't crank or fire. What should I do...any opinions?
So I have a 1981 z28 that I have been restoring. I recently had it running, but than replaced the intake manifold and than it would only crank no fire. So I was searching around and noticed the grounding strap on top of the alternator was super hot. I replaced my sparkplugs again to see the brand new plugs were shot and I am thinking it was the alternator that shorted it out (I am sure the distributor was timed correctly and working properly). so I went to oreillys to return my brand new alternator since the bearings were also bad. but after I had already turned it in their manager gave it back and was saying it definitely wasn't the alternator it was ignition switch or the neutral safety switch. now it doesn't crank or fire. What should I do...any opinions?
Well first thing I'd do is make darn sure your engine is properly grounded, and also that ground straps from engine to chassis are also in place. Grounds, or poor grounds cause more problems with 12 v. systems than almost anything else.
Then start with the basics. Check fuses first! Often people get too involved in looking at components, and overlook the obvious. If all fuses are good, then start going through the start circuit with a meter, or 12v. test lamp probe. Check for power at the neutral safety switch, and the ignition switch. They are both on the column, below the dash, and you can check them by turning the key on, and checking ignition switch power. Then turn it to start position and check the neutral safety for power at both sides. If it has power through both, then you'll need a helper to turn the key while you check for power at the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid. If it has power, then it's time for a new solenoid/starter.
Then start with the basics. Check fuses first! Often people get too involved in looking at components, and overlook the obvious. If all fuses are good, then start going through the start circuit with a meter, or 12v. test lamp probe. Check for power at the neutral safety switch, and the ignition switch. They are both on the column, below the dash, and you can check them by turning the key on, and checking ignition switch power. Then turn it to start position and check the neutral safety for power at both sides. If it has power through both, then you'll need a helper to turn the key while you check for power at the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid. If it has power, then it's time for a new solenoid/starter.
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