Well, Doesn't this look pretty. I spent many hours putting the drivers side suspension together. All parts are powder coated or POR-15'd. It took 4 shots to get the spring compressor to pull it straight. Gave my air ratchet and arm a hell of a workout. Those new poly bushing go together really tight.

 

What I didn't mention in the last post was I have to take it all apart again. The tool I borrowed from Autozone is stuck in the spring.

AAARGG

 

Yep, I know exactly what you mean! Just went through a suspension rebuild this summer. I couldn't get my spring compressor to even work on mine. I ended up wrestling them in and compressing them with my hydraulic jack under the A arm. My subframe was in the car, so I had the advantage of a heavy engine and car holding it down.

 

subframe is in the car, but no engine. I can't even get them close without the compresser. Did you lower it from the spindle or from the bushing side. These new bushings went in so tight I'll never get them in from that side.

 

I lowered it from the spindle side as I had the same issue with bushings being so tight I wouldn't dream of taking them back out!
I actually had even heavier than stock springs as I went with AC springs for a bit more spring rate on my big block car. I put the springs up into the top spring pocket, then pushed them into the lower arm behind the ball joint. I used a prybar to hold them back as I raised the control arm, then continued to gradually raise the arm as I pryed and worked them towards the lower A arm pocket. Once the arm got high enough they literally jumped into the pocket. It's a little unerving when they pop into place, but they did it.
I would have loved some assistance with the jack as I was working them into place, but didn't have any, so just forged ahead on my own. I did have one snafu on the driver's side when the spring jumped into place, but the end of the coil popped through the shock mounting hole! I thought about lowering the arm and starting over, but it took so long to get there that I decided to try and get it out. I lowered the arm as much as possible to relieve tension, then used a large screwdriver, small prybars, and a big hammer to finally get it to pop out and into place.
In hindsight I got estimates to do the work that were around $600-$700 for parts and labor. I wish I had taken the estimate, but glad I did it, just to have the satisfaction of completing it, and knowing it was done with all top quality parts. I didn't save a ton of money as I had probably $300 in coils, ball joints, and poly bushings. Plus another $150 in labor to have the 2 ball joints pressed in, and bushings pressed out and new pressed in.

 

Well the suspension kicked my butt yesterday, I decided to wait until I have help before attempting again. Autozone said I have 90 days to return the tool. Or forfeit $53. LOL Maybe I can just leave it there I don't need a shock!

Any how I jumped to the firewall. I hate how they look so crummy. I have an AC car ( with AC springs) But I only want heat and defrost. So I cut off the part of the heater box with the ac in it. Someone had hacked it for header clearance once upon a time. ( more stink in the car). I mocked up the new box that I'm building and did a mockup of the firewall cover plate I have yet to make. All the wiring will be behind this plate. It will be approx 1" from the wall.

I have build the heater box about 90% Pics of that tomorrow.

I found a mouse nest in the heater box.

 

The wiper motor has three wires. Two are together in one plug, one is alone. I can't remember if the two go on top or the one. Can someone look at thier car and tell me whick way is correct?
Another shot of the firewall. I think I'lll paint it body color. Probably do the complete inner hood area body color
Thanks

 

The parts are made. Still need final welding and sanding. What do you all think. I'm still on the fence if I should put shallow covers over the wiper motor. I'l probably have to trim the tunnel some more.
I was going to sand and do the heater box and wiper motor glass black. then this new panel red like the car will be.

 

Looks great! Is the heater box still removeable to access a heater core? I think I'd paint it all the same color, either black or car color. I'd leave the wiper motor black, and booster/master original colors. What's the can below the wiper motor? Are those wires going to rub on the sharp edge of the new sheetmetal?

 

The can is the actual motor for the wipers. The sheet metal has yet to be finished. I will probably do the edges with a rubber edge molding. I'l have to find it and show a pic.. Still awaiting the oompah to get basck to the suspension.