78' RS Build in MA - "The Moss-maro"
In the Staging Lanes
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 82
From: east brunswick nj
i don't know how j b weld would work for a bigger area but i used it many years ago as a last ditch effort on a 305 in my friends truck that broke the crank bolt holding the damper on i did that when i was about 25 or so i'm 41 now he's still driving it that way!
Dave
Dave
1st Gear Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 213
ok so todays progress. Thanks to my good buddy Tap (thanks tap!) we pulled the aftermarket stereo/tape deck/amp/equalizer/CB radio/PA system . . . . and no im not kidding. There was some serious aftermarket wiring under there. We pulled everyting running through the entire car and rewired new speaker wire just for the rears . . . still debating if im going to do door speakers we will see.
Does anyone happen to have a stock stereo for a late 70s vintage Chevy ? Maybe something sitting around or something you pulled to upgrade the system ? Im looking to do something pretty stock and simple. Im looking for a **** style radio to put back in there.
So onto the pictures !
Door cards out. Did they have door cards for these things which did not have speaker holes in them ?
Let the tear out begin !
Crazy 80s speaker and amp/equalizer
Much cleaner
New speaker wire time.
And heres the pile that came out. Please note the loud speaker we found mounted into the drivers side front quarter panel.
Does anyone happen to have a stock stereo for a late 70s vintage Chevy ? Maybe something sitting around or something you pulled to upgrade the system ? Im looking to do something pretty stock and simple. Im looking for a **** style radio to put back in there.
So onto the pictures !
Door cards out. Did they have door cards for these things which did not have speaker holes in them ?
Let the tear out begin !
Crazy 80s speaker and amp/equalizer
Much cleaner
New speaker wire time.
And heres the pile that came out. Please note the loud speaker we found mounted into the drivers side front quarter panel.
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Something around 18ga. should be plenty heavy for patches. I wouldn't use JB Weld for this scenario either. I've used it in a lot of places, but a sheetmetal patch flexes, and it will eventually let go.
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1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 193
From: Wareham, MA
ok cool. I think all things considered im going to give the fiberglass a try. It may not be the best option but I have the stuff to do it in my shop already and Im not looking to do a perfect restoration anyways, just something functional 
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Well I don't think glass will be functional, unless you were to put a steel patch over the hole and glass it in. Glass with even glass cloth wont be strong enough to hold someone's weight as they stand to exit the car. You'll need the metal also.
While you're doing the floors, be sure to seam seal any other existing repairs too. I see the pass. side has a patch panel that's just tacked in and not welded completely. That needs to also be either welded, or go over the edges with your glass resin and cloth, then seam sealed underneath or it will leak and rot out again.
While you're doing the floors, be sure to seam seal any other existing repairs too. I see the pass. side has a patch panel that's just tacked in and not welded completely. That needs to also be either welded, or go over the edges with your glass resin and cloth, then seam sealed underneath or it will leak and rot out again.
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1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 193
From: Wareham, MA
Ya i have the seam sealer ready to go. The glassing im talking about doing is for the two very small holes in the rear which will be under the seats. They arent in load bearing places and will never be stepped on or had weight applied to them. I was going to do two layers of cloth with resin over them.
As for the front repair there, youre saying i should do strips of glass/cloth over the tacked seams ?
As for the front repair there, youre saying i should do strips of glass/cloth over the tacked seams ?
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Yes, I would glass cloth the seams, then seam seal the underside. Even if those rear areas wont be stood on I'd still hammer out little pieces of sheetmetal to fit over them. It wont take but minutes, so why not do it? It will make the glassing much easier too. Just use a piece of 18ga. steel and a ball peen hammer.
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1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 193
From: Wareham, MA
oh I understand. Ok so cut the rusted metal away around the holes, make them nice and clean, get some 18ga steel, cut patches out that are 1" bigger then the hole around, shape them, st them over the holes then glass/cloth over the whole thing ? Sound about right ?