Hi, no I will not narrow the axle my self. When I talked with Moser engineering, and advised how I would like to narrow it, they told me that it is from there where it needs to be reduced if I have to keep the same mounting perches location as stock. I assume that they have a jig to weld the mounting perches at the original location for the 78 camaro.

Below is a free hand sketch of how I need to narrow the axle. Have a look

http://s10.postimg.org/dfwl1q3k9/IMG_5276.jpg
http://s10.postimg.org/t03ys9dop/IMG_5275.jpg

 

I'm a little confused. If you're having it professionally narrowed, then why ask how it should be done? I wouldn't question how Mosier did an axle, as they've been successfully doing them for a very long time.
I'm also confused about having spring perches welded on in any location, since you said earlier you are going to a 4 link, and they don't use spring perches. Why not have the 4 link brackets put on the axle while it's being narrowed?

 

For only narrowing one inch on each side, to me it would make more economical sense to just use wheels with more back spacing to tuck them in.

 

At the very first beginning, I was thinking of narrow it my self so I was thinking how to do it. Eventually I made my maths and it was going to be more expensive and time consuming if I had to do it my self including any expenses to correct any mistakes. Then I contacted Moser Engineering and I ask them how they do it. They told me the same as I was planning of doing it. I asked the same question here on my post so if there are any alternative way of doing it, I will know about it.

I bought ride tech 4 link kit P/N 11170210 Suspension Packages :: 1970-1981 Chevy Camaro - CoilOver System - Level 2 - RideTech.com - Suspension Specialist - Online Store
This kit use stock (or aftermarket perches if new rear end is new without perches) to attach the lower bars to the rear axle. The upper links are then welded to the axle tubes and then attached to a triangulated top arms. These triangulated top arms attach are bolted or welded to the frame rails. The coil overs are than connected to the triangulated top bars and the lower perches. It looks a very good kit. Hope it will handle the power of the 572.

Camaro 69, Yes doing as you are telling me will be more easy but I would like to keep as much lip as possible on the out side of the wheel (as much as negative offset as possible). So by reducing the rear axle by 2 inches or more (I will leave this in the hands of Moser engineering) I will gain more -ve offset.

Also I will minitub the rear to accomodate wider tyres. Does anyone have installed a minitub kit on a second gen camaro? Any suggestions please?

 

Considering the build plan for your car, I'd want a triangulated 4 link that would clean up the rear axle, and eliminate the perches for a cleaner look, and stronger mounting. Something like the Heidt's that welds on the axle, but bolts or welds to the frame.

 

Val, I'm pretty sure thats triangulated already. I dont see a panhard bar in the kit. And the top arms are pointed in.

Chuck, I agree that if your doing that much to the car then build it and then call Rushforth (I bet thats what brand he gets) with the sizes and BS needed. But I screwed the pooch on mine. My wheels didnt fall right where I would like. I want to lower it over the wheels. So when I get to that point I'm planning on useing a piece of 2" and a piece of 1 1/2" conduit. Weld a tab on the end and bolt the wheel and tire to it. Slip the smaller one inside the big one and lock it down with a tee bolt. Then roll it under and set the width at the ride height I like and measure hub to hub.
THEN call Moser myself cause I'm getting one someday myself.

Clacia, I would rest assured that Moser will build you one hell of an axle so long as you give them the right measurements. They will take care of things like pinion offset and will want to know things like what type of flange you want on the end. That is where it pays to plan ahead. If you know what your going to use for brakes they will weld the correct ends on. I personally have GM brakes and a Ford big bearing end would kill all that. So Moser has a combination that will work. You just have to tell them what your plans are. There is a guy in another forum that builds them, he recommended a set up for me on my 10 bolt that was way odd but worked if I wanted it. Something to do with hobby stock axles...

Anyhow, you are throwing serious cash at this car. Every one of the vendors is top level.

 

[QUOTE=77nomad;683404]Val, I'm pretty sure thats triangulated already. I dont see a panhard bar in the kit. And the top arms are pointed in.

QUOTE]

My point wasn't that it isn't triangulated, it was that I wouldn't use a system that adapted to the stock perch location. If I was going to a completely different rear axle (like a 9" Ford) I'd want the triangulated 4 link to be a system that started with a clean axle housing.

 

77nomad and 1971BB42 do you think that the ridetech triangulated 4 link that i have will handle the power of 700Hp? Or I need to make it stronger?

And regarding the brakes, I am ordering Bear 6P front and 4P rear. Bear make the brakes to fit the Ford 9" tube flange.

Moser asked me as well what axle tube flange do I need to choose. What shall I select?

Thanks

 

I don't know anything about the Ridetech, so can't say. I was mainly speaking from the standpoint of a triangulated 4 link's looks. They're a great looking system, and should handle a lot of power. Just prefer one that's not made to connect to leaf spring mounts.

 

Hi all, What stall converter it required for the 572? Why a 2500 stall converter is more streetable than a 3000 or 3800. And why the higher the stall speed the more heat produced?