632ci engine installation in 78 camaro
#361
Val, what I've come up with is people using a syringe. Some are crapping on the isolator some love it but you know how that is.
Clacia, NRE will send something with the engine recommending fuel pressure. Generally between 5-8ish PSI Some people are a 4 some like 9. I personally installed a 750 Mighty Demon today that was dumping fuel from everywhere at 6-7. Fuel volume is something NRE will let you know as well. A Aeromotive A1000 or Holley Dominator would feed it for sure. Again preference is involved here as the decibel level of these pumps running is crazy. A return system if you can afford it is easier on the pump and quiets it down some. If you can get one in the tank go for it. Both pumps are submersible. Both pumps are loud in any configuration.
Clacia, NRE will send something with the engine recommending fuel pressure. Generally between 5-8ish PSI Some people are a 4 some like 9. I personally installed a 750 Mighty Demon today that was dumping fuel from everywhere at 6-7. Fuel volume is something NRE will let you know as well. A Aeromotive A1000 or Holley Dominator would feed it for sure. Again preference is involved here as the decibel level of these pumps running is crazy. A return system if you can afford it is easier on the pump and quiets it down some. If you can get one in the tank go for it. Both pumps are submersible. Both pumps are loud in any configuration.
#362
Whenever possible I always run a mechanical fuel pump! I have an electric on my little Austin, but only because the frame rail is about 2" from the block, and no room for mechanical fuel pump. I don't see any reason a good mechanical wont give you plenty of fuel for a carbed engine, but if you're going with an electronic injection system you wont have the option of using a mechanical pump.
An in tank electric pump is quieter, and runs cooler. Regardless of what you run, I always use a pressure regulator. Even with stock fuel pumps, as I've seen stock pumps put out 9 lbs. pressure! Very few carburetors will take over 6 lbs. pressure, and I run mine set at 4.5 lbs., and never have issues with fuel starvation on my carbureted cars, even with twin carbs.
An in tank electric pump is quieter, and runs cooler. Regardless of what you run, I always use a pressure regulator. Even with stock fuel pumps, as I've seen stock pumps put out 9 lbs. pressure! Very few carburetors will take over 6 lbs. pressure, and I run mine set at 4.5 lbs., and never have issues with fuel starvation on my carbureted cars, even with twin carbs.
#364
Val, what I've come up with is people using a syringe. Some are crapping on the isolator some love it but you know how that is.
Clacia, NRE will send something with the engine recommending fuel pressure. Generally between 5-8ish PSI Some people are a 4 some like 9. I personally installed a 750 Mighty Demon today that was dumping fuel from everywhere at 6-7. Fuel volume is something NRE will let you know as well. A Aeromotive A1000 or Holley Dominator would feed it for sure. Again preference is involved here as the decibel level of these pumps running is crazy. A return system if you can afford it is easier on the pump and quiets it down some. If you can get one in the tank go for it. Both pumps are submersible. Both pumps are loud in any configuration.
Clacia, NRE will send something with the engine recommending fuel pressure. Generally between 5-8ish PSI Some people are a 4 some like 9. I personally installed a 750 Mighty Demon today that was dumping fuel from everywhere at 6-7. Fuel volume is something NRE will let you know as well. A Aeromotive A1000 or Holley Dominator would feed it for sure. Again preference is involved here as the decibel level of these pumps running is crazy. A return system if you can afford it is easier on the pump and quiets it down some. If you can get one in the tank go for it. Both pumps are submersible. Both pumps are loud in any configuration.
Fuel return line will be the excess fuel from the carb bowls back to the tank?
And does the pump needs to be ventilated for cooling? Just guessing, the best place for the pump (if external) will be either in the trunk or somewhere near the fuel tank aft below...
#365
Whenever possible I always run a mechanical fuel pump! I have an electric on my little Austin, but only because the frame rail is about 2" from the block, and no room for mechanical fuel pump. I don't see any reason a good mechanical wont give you plenty of fuel for a carbed engine, but if you're going with an electronic injection system you wont have the option of using a mechanical pump.
An in tank electric pump is quieter, and runs cooler. Regardless of what you run, I always use a pressure regulator. Even with stock fuel pumps, as I've seen stock pumps put out 9 lbs. pressure! Very few carburetors will take over 6 lbs. pressure, and I run mine set at 4.5 lbs., and never have issues with fuel starvation on my carbureted cars, even with twin carbs.
An in tank electric pump is quieter, and runs cooler. Regardless of what you run, I always use a pressure regulator. Even with stock fuel pumps, as I've seen stock pumps put out 9 lbs. pressure! Very few carburetors will take over 6 lbs. pressure, and I run mine set at 4.5 lbs., and never have issues with fuel starvation on my carbureted cars, even with twin carbs.
And yes the 572 will have a 1050 dominator with progressive linkages it says.
Definitely YES for the fuel pressure gauge. Wheather electric or not i need to decide. But I prefer the one on the regulator. Once the pressure is set, nothing can go wrong (unless it blocks and pressure drops.. unlikely)
#366
A return REGULATOR with return fuel back to the tank that is not consumed by the bowls. The pump should not go in the trunk. I dont like that one bit. Some do it. I dont like the idea of an pump adding fuel to a fire in the cockpit. Or even a leak getting you good and stoned as you drive around with 750hp under your foot. It can be done if the trunk is sealed from the cabin with sheet metal and fire resistant caulk. Trunk mounted fuel cells are done all the time but I dont like those either.
Well see if your nothing can go wrong theory holds up. I see pressure creep all the time as well as regulators that dont hold constant pressure. We put a Domi on a street motor one time and then sold it the next week. It was a two circuit that was not friendly to cruise at all. I dont trust my skill to tune a Domi for anything but WOT.
Well see if your nothing can go wrong theory holds up. I see pressure creep all the time as well as regulators that dont hold constant pressure. We put a Domi on a street motor one time and then sold it the next week. It was a two circuit that was not friendly to cruise at all. I dont trust my skill to tune a Domi for anything but WOT.
#367
So you use the mechanical fuel pump instead of the electric one? Or you use them the mechanical as a backup? Will see what NRE says on fuel pump.
And yes the 572 will have a 1050 dominator with progressive linkages it says.
Definitely YES for the fuel pressure gauge. Wheather electric or not i need to decide. But I prefer the one on the regulator. Once the pressure is set, nothing can go wrong (unless it blocks and pressure drops.. unlikely)
And yes the 572 will have a 1050 dominator with progressive linkages it says.
Definitely YES for the fuel pressure gauge. Wheather electric or not i need to decide. But I prefer the one on the regulator. Once the pressure is set, nothing can go wrong (unless it blocks and pressure drops.. unlikely)
Pressure can vary for several reasons. Location of the regulator is one big reason. If it's too close to a heat source the heat will affect the pressure setting, so keep it away from high temps. Also hard acceleration will consume fuel, and when you let off the pressure will vary, but only temporarily. Most variations in fuel pressure will be minor, and momentary, so they aren't a concern. That's why I don't care about watching fuel pressure constantly.
#368
A return REGULATOR with return fuel back to the tank that is not consumed by the bowls. The pump should not go in the trunk. I dont like that one bit. Some do it. I dont like the idea of an pump adding fuel to a fire in the cockpit. Or even a leak getting you good and stoned as you drive around with 750hp under your foot. It can be done if the trunk is sealed from the cabin with sheet metal and fire resistant caulk. Trunk mounted fuel cells are done all the time but I dont like those either.
Well see if your nothing can go wrong theory holds up. I see pressure creep all the time as well as regulators that dont hold constant pressure. We put a Domi on a street motor one time and then sold it the next week. It was a two circuit that was not friendly to cruise at all. I dont trust my skill to tune a Domi for anything but WOT.
Well see if your nothing can go wrong theory holds up. I see pressure creep all the time as well as regulators that dont hold constant pressure. We put a Domi on a street motor one time and then sold it the next week. It was a two circuit that was not friendly to cruise at all. I dont trust my skill to tune a Domi for anything but WOT.
Holley Performance Products 950CFM Shiny with Black Billet, Aluminum Ultra HP*0-80805BK
But I'd also be more inclined to go with the 572 GM crate engine too.
#369
If you do decide to stick with the Dominator, you should read this article. In fact you should memorize it, before you make the decision on what carb to run!
Run a Dominator on the Street - Car Craft Magazine All Pages
Run a Dominator on the Street - Car Craft Magazine All Pages
#370
If you do decide to stick with the Dominator, you should read this article. In fact you should memorize it, before you make the decision on what carb to run!
Run a Dominator on the Street - Car Craft Magazine All Pages
Run a Dominator on the Street - Car Craft Magazine All Pages
If a Dominator 1050 is not good for the street, than what shall use??