[QUOTE=77nomad;692312]Lemens is building you a 3" collector BBC header? Huh? I dont have cut outs on my car. but I did put them on the truck.

Why, 3" collector is no good?

 

Just sounds small. If thats what they put on there then they know better than I. But I have a complete exhaust in the shop from a BB Nova and it has 3.5 to 3 reducers to fit the pipe. My small block headers are also 3". Both my big tube and small tube headers. No matter since they get reduced to 2.5 but a 3" on a 750hp motor must be for torque???

 

Not sure if that could be incorporated to adjust the amount of opening Damon, without some sort of proximity switch to tell the control where the valve was? It would simply slow down the operation, rather than control the opening stop point.
The Badlandz are 2 seconds from stop to stop, so it's actually easy to just bump them and get various points of open. I sometimes run mine slightly open around town on the Austin. Always keep them fully closed on the freeway, as the noise gets old at cruise speeds.
I've never thought about putting them on the Falcon, as the 2" primaries and 3.5" collectors make it unbearable when uncapped. When I race it I wear ear plugs to cut the sound level. I was at a local cruise last weekend and they had a cackle fest. They asked me to uncap and participate, so I obliged. When I fired it up to move to the area it was extremely loud. But when I backed in next to a bucket T the owner fired up his engine and moved 4-5 spaces over. After the event was done he came over and explained that the BBC in the Falcon was so loud it shook his windshield as I was pulling in, and he was afraid once I revved it up it might crack the glass, so he figured he'd move first! LOL

 

I have the race ready 3.5" electric cutouts, havent even opened the box yet though so i cant really comment on the fit and finish.

 

See two examples of 3.5" collectors right there.

 

I do not know how this is possible - 2 572's alike one has 3.5" collectors and the other one has 3" collectors by the same manufacturer??

I just confirmed from Lemons and NRE that the 3" was the correct size for the 572. How and why I do not know. I know that Summit caalculate the collector size by using this equation:- Collector size = Primary Tube OD X 1.8 (constant)

If this is correct, the collector size should be 2.125(primary pipe OD) X 1.8 = 3.8"

If this is correct or not I do not know. Any feedback??? Thanks

 

I wouldnt second guess these guys. exhaust tuning is a science. Primary length and dia. as well as collector length and diameter are spec'd out according to the torque curve the engine builder desires. The torque is traded for HP as well as where it is in the rpm range. Like I said, I would never second guess these guys Nelson or Lemons. They have more time with engines than I ever will. Even the arrangement in the collector can play into HP. Getting one exhaust pulse to drag the next one like a well pump.

Val, so the cut outs are on a momentary switch? Or a SPST?

 

Hi nomad, no I will never second guess them. I know that they contacted each other and discuss things about oil pan, heads, etc etc. I know that the collector should be 3" diameter. How long I will ask. After all that is why I am paying such money for people who know what they are doing. But I was a bit confused when 2 572 alike with different collectors diameter made by same manufacturer (unless I misunderstood sudstoy). Won't you??
Any way thanks for your reply.

 

I contacted badlenz HPE and I have a good quote for dual electric motors + gaskets + Y-pipes + harness + wireless remote control approx $400 + free shipping to all USA. Quite cheap compared to $650 from race ready performance (without wireless remote control). I am waiting for a quote from QTP. Will let you know.

Any one of you desired or ever did wireless engine starting??

 

Yes, all the electric cutouts I've seen used a momentary double throw switch, with center position return. No switched stop, so you have to be careful not to over drive the motor when running them. The instructions say to hold the switch until they are open or close, and not over 3 seconds. On closing you wait until they're quiet, then give the close position a couple taps on the switch to be sure they seal. The motor shafts are spring loaded, so they'll bounce back and not shear the shaft.