1973 Z28 project rusty gold.

Old Sep 23, 2011 | 12:49 PM
  #171  
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Nothing wrong with another idea or opinion Damon. It would certainly help to have more input on a project of this size.
 
Old Sep 23, 2011 | 01:21 PM
  #172  
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I haven't ever attempted it. So I can't give real advise. I was just saying I'd probably do it different.
 
Old Sep 23, 2011 | 11:25 PM
  #173  
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Different how Damon? My original thoughts were to have the sub frame in and just work in the 4 link and incorperate it into the present frame rails but it just seems like it would be much easier to do it out from under the camaro.
 
Old Sep 23, 2011 | 11:45 PM
  #174  
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I have no clue what that schematic you posted is for damon, is it for checking measurements?
 
Old Sep 24, 2011 | 12:39 AM
  #175  
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Yes, it gives the proper measurements to square your front. There are locating holes all over the car to check straightness. I used that drawing when I did mine. The two holes in the middle mounts are 5/8" and will get you close. This has to be done. Your sheetmetal won't fit right and you can guess what it would drive like if the front were cocked.

As for fitting the four link. I would cut the floor out where the trans tunnel ends. All the way back to the tail panel. Then set the car over the four link and set the wheel base. The rectangle box tubing at the front of the four link would get welded to the floor and the I would extend the front rails straight into that. Honesty I can't really describe what I would do. I would then do the floors and finally a 10 point cage to stiffen everything up. The cage would be my way of keeping it from folding. I really have no experiance and would just wing it if I were to do it.
 

Last edited by 77nomad; Sep 24, 2011 at 01:08 AM.
Old Sep 24, 2011 | 08:50 PM
  #176  
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I had thought of something like that also damon but with making the frame outside the car I can cut just what I need out of the floor to make it fit and won't have to piece the floor together so much afterwards and I was worried about weakening the body to much by cutting that much floor at once.

Today I didn't get much done, I cut and ground off some of what was left of the previously attached frame prepping it for the new connections. Not gonna get much done tomorrow heading out of town for the day for some shopping.
 
Old Sep 26, 2011 | 08:04 AM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by james hellsing
I had thought of something like that also damon but with making the frame outside the car I can cut just what I need out of the floor to make it fit and won't have to piece the floor together so much afterwards and I was worried about weakening the body to much by cutting that much floor at once.

Today I didn't get much done, I cut and ground off some of what was left of the previously attached frame prepping it for the new connections. Not gonna get much done tomorrow heading out of town for the day for some shopping.
That was my reason for building it off the car. Once it's built and placed under the car you can remove whatever portions of the floor or rear frame that interfere with it sitting in place. The roll cage is a very good idea too if you plan on much of an engine, as it really will stiffen everything up, plus look really wicked.
 
Old Sep 26, 2011 | 01:57 PM
  #178  
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A roll cage will be in the works but nothing to drastic I'm not a fan of the ones with bars in the way when your trying to get in the car.
My 3x2 tubing is just a bit to big to slide in the sub frame so I'm gonna check the metal place and get some 3x1, some 2 inch flat bar or what it's called and some angle for bracing stuff up I'll ask em if they have any odd's and ends radom left overs to see what I can get to practice with as well, Should be able to get their scraps pretty cheap. And if I can come up with a way to get it there I'm gonna take my frame to friday skills class and have my instructor help me with the measurements and everything. The 4 link and pieces will fit fine in my truck bed but the sub frame I need a trailer for which right now I'm trying to borrow my sisters four wheeler trailer but it all depends on if I can get it before friday or not.
 
Old Sep 26, 2011 | 06:16 PM
  #179  
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That 3x2 box tubing should just slide in if the subframe isn't dented or damaged. Mine slid right in with a nice close fit, and no pounding to do it.
 
Old Sep 26, 2011 | 07:17 PM
  #180  
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Well mine is tight. The seam where it's welded is to tight, If i pound it in I'm sure it would go in but I don't want to reap the consequences of spreading the seam and or welds so I'm gonna use the 3x1 as a dummy to figure out how far in I will put it and take measurements with the 3x1 then I'll cut the nice round top hole to match the sub frame one and then either cut most/part of the bottom of the 3x2 out like the sub frame so I'll have room to get the mounts in and then if I didn't cut room for the seam grind enough off so it will slid in. If I had gotten the next size smaller from .120 wall thickness it would probably fit fine but I'm gonna talk to my instructor tomorrow and confirm that he is okay with and willing to help me do the work and rent a trailer or borrow one if they will let me from the rental place I work at and take my frame and stuff to skills on friday which is just work on whatever you bring in and get it all done up so I'm gonna print out that measurements diagram and get all my imfo ready so it can get done friday. class is from 8 to 12 so I'm pretty sure we can get it done and if not I can leave it and work on it monday or something.
 

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