1972 Camaro project

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  #11  
Old 10-26-2012, 11:19 AM
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I guess that would work.
 
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Old 10-26-2012, 01:47 PM
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Here's a link to what some have done for repairs. Be sure to try to determine the old center before cutting out all the rusted portion and welding in the patch.
subframe-body mount repair - NastyZ28.com
Another with good pics:
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=180393
 
  #13  
Old 10-26-2012, 02:54 PM
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I put that second link, along with another one in our tech articles DIY section. https://camaroforums.com/forum/gener...ll-info-34568/
I remember someone here did the same repair, gotta find it and add to the list.
 
  #14  
Old 10-26-2012, 07:51 PM
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A repair kit for a first gen can be made to work too. I haven't opened the links, maybe thats what they did IDK.
 
  #15  
Old 10-26-2012, 08:43 PM
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Thanks guys. I wasn't really sure what to do about that rust on the frame yet. I have not done any research for that until now. It don't look like it will be to bad of a job to do. My plan is to get the sub frame all taken car of before I start working on the body. I plan on sand blasting the frame. What is a good coating to put on the frame? Is it better to powder coat it or paint it with some thing?
 
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Old 10-27-2012, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 78_junker
Thanks guys. I wasn't really sure what to do about that rust on the frame yet. I have not done any research for that until now. It don't look like it will be to bad of a job to do. My plan is to get the sub frame all taken car of before I start working on the body. I plan on sand blasting the frame. What is a good coating to put on the frame? Is it better to powder coat it or paint it with some thing?
If you can budget powder coating I'd do that, but it wasn't in my tight budget, so I painted. I'm not big on the POR15 bandwagon either, so I did all mine with Rustoleum satin black. I bought a gallon can and some acetone to thin and harden it. Then I just dumped it in the HF spraygun and shot it on everything I wanted black.
 
  #17  
Old 10-28-2012, 12:31 AM
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Mine is exactly the same way. If you let it set up for a few days it gets pretty hard when thinned with acetone.
 
  #18  
Old 10-28-2012, 11:34 AM
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I don't mean to hijack the thread but I am about finished replacing my floor pans and firewall repair and want to put a good rust preventative down before the heat/soundproofing materials. Will the Rustoleum work for that? What ratio acetone to paint works best?
 
  #19  
Old 10-28-2012, 02:13 PM
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I am using regular epoxy primer inside the shell. My opinion is is is far better. SPI, the company I get my primer from says there adhesion over 80g is approaching that of powder coat. It fills 80 grit as well without shrinking years later and showing the sanding marks. Plus it stays flexable. I have a chunk that I left in the bottom of a mixing cup. When I popped the chunk out it hadn't shrunk but even better I can bend the chunk in half if I put it in a vise. I have been to make a video of it because others on different forums ask about this stuff. the piece is 1/2" thick and still flexable a years and a half later.

The only reason I didn't use it on my fram is because I wanted gloss black and it drys to a semi gloss. That is the other upside. The gloss is nice enough to put on the car and drive as is. Leaving that murdered out look that is so popular right now.
 
  #20  
Old 10-28-2012, 08:05 PM
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Damon, where can you get the SPI epoxy primer? It thins with acetone? Is that the catalyst? If it's that good, I could use it on my frame too.
 


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