woh all messed up..

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  #11  
Old 12-15-2009, 06:45 PM
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If the rubber is missing from the old balancer it is most likely rotated out of position. Forget it and use the new one, just make certain you have the correct tab for timing marks. Even is the cam has been degreed, your timing marks should not be too far off.
 
  #12  
Old 12-15-2009, 07:24 PM
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well i had the whole engine out and i replaced the balancer the old one is garbage. i just got it started and it ran. now to mark the new one with a sharpie paint pen just so if it is off i can change it after but its running and the dist is in a good spot.. might go by sound after but its turn key start in 40 degree wet weather with no choke. thats a start.
 
  #13  
Old 12-19-2009, 12:13 PM
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so i thought i post a little update on here.

its running alot better now. im just fighting a little mishap that happened when i had my valve covers laying on the heads. they keep dust out but not water. my barn leaks right over my intake manifold and i didnt know it would rain and it must have leaked on it all night cause i had a pool of water in my oil pan the next morning. i drained as much out and ran half a qt though and filled it when it fired up it turned instantly milky so i drained it new filter flushed some oil though then filled it. turned milky again but was better. lasted longer. i repeated the prosses again i got a good 15Qt of oil though it now and it stayed clear last night when i brought it up to temp.

was kinda scared about my intake manifold gasket but i dont think thats the problem. duel fel pro gaskets with gasket maker on both sides i dont think it would leak.

i was havening a slight miss and hesitation around 1k rpms turned the idle mix screw out half a turn and its way better. new headers must really flow more air cause it needed more fuel than what i was running the last time.

has a old used holley 600CF vacuum secondaries. the diaphragm is worn out and has a stiff spring on it so it does need to be rebuilt. it ran rich at half a turn out from bottomed out when it was running last but it was really restricted with a closed hot air pump.

its geting close i will get pixs the day its off the stand and on the ground with no tools laying all over it but as of right now it is turn key start wana do new U joints and a few odds and ends then i got to finish the hood before it rusts though... wet and cars dont mix..
 
  #14  
Old 12-19-2009, 01:35 PM
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To set idle mixture screws: 1.Get the engine up to temp 2.Shut the engine off 3.Install a vacuum gauge to a full manifold vacuum port 4.Turn the screws all the way in until lightly seated 5.Next, back them out 1 full turn and restart the engine making sure the choke is completely off 6.While at idle, back them out 1/8 turn at a time, alternating between the 2 or 4, until highest vacuum is achieved. Be sure you keep all 2 or 4 screws even. You can also do this adjustment without a vacuum gauge, the adjustment are the same except you will adjust to highest engine RPM at idle.

QUESTION Why is my engine running rich and my mixture screws do not have effect?
ANSWER The first thing you need to check is your float level. No fuel should run from the sight hole unless you shake the vehicle. Next check the engine vacuum at idle. (in gear if A/T) if it is 12" or more a 6.5" powervalve will usually be fine. Anything below 12" divide in half. For example 9" vacuum will use a 4.5" power valve. Another possible cause associated with performance cam shafts are exposed transfer slots. You should not see more than .025"-.030" of the transfer slot exposed past the throttle plate at idle.
 
  #15  
Old 12-19-2009, 10:25 PM
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yeah im good on idle mixture setup. i got a vac gauge too i just turned it out to 1 turn when i realized it was starved for fuel and wasnt starting worth a crap. ima tune that all in when i get exhaust on because its open headers right now and it will change a little with glass packs.
 
  #16  
Old 12-19-2009, 11:40 PM
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If you've got open headers you might as well not waste your time. It will change more than a little when it's got an exhaust system!
When I used to run mine at PIR or Woodburn I opened the headers, and it would barely get down the 1/4 mile. I had to carry a whole separate set of jets, and various Holley gaskets to be able to tune it for 1/4 mile runs with open headers, then when I got ready to drive home I tore the Holley apart and put everything back in again.
I could run under 13 sec. with closed exhaust, but went a full a full 2 sec. slower when I opened the headers if I didn't re-jet it. I got so tired of changing jets to get a couple tenths over my closed exhaust setup, that I finally gave up and just ran it closed all the time.
I started concentrating on suspension, tires, tire pressure, and shift points, rather than mess with the engine tuning. It was a lot easier in the long run, and made for more runs down the track too!
 
  #17  
Old 12-19-2009, 11:47 PM
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yeah i got my cherry bombs just slid in the reducer so i can start it in the barn and not get cops called on me so fast lol. i got to get some pipe bent this week. its gona be true duel no H pipe for this second i will in turn weld on an H after but for now i just want it running on the street.
 
  #18  
Old 12-20-2009, 07:18 PM
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ok i need some help. i got the new U joints on and the front one is perfect but the rear one wont fit. the caps are too small and move around in the saddle straps when there all tighten down.. it wont be hard to change the U joint out for the right one but i dont know why this problem happened. im going back to shucks tomorrow with my old U joint and get some help might see if i can get one free since they sold me the wrong one too. the guy there is pretty cool might be able to get that. but what do u guys think? think i get the wrong U joint
 
  #19  
Old 12-20-2009, 09:29 PM
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Yes! The dolt at Schucks didn't give you the correct U joint. The correct one is different on two caps vs. the other two. He gave you the early style that is small size on all 4 caps, but you need one that is small on the driveline pair, but larger to fit the later yoke on your differential.
If you had a TH400 trans your driveline would use the large joint cap on all 4 caps.
If you measure your old joint you'll see they are differnt sizes on each pair.
 
  #20  
Old 12-20-2009, 09:53 PM
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sweet thanks! ill go back. its in the driveshaft but ima see if i can score a free one since i got the wrong one. and i know the guy i got it from so he might beable to back me up.
thank you!
 


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