After 30+ years, I have decided that I would like to add some gauges (oil pres, temp, ammeter/voltmeter) to my '79 Rally Sport. I would like to make minimal changes to the interior so that it can be returned to stock if my oldest son wants to do that later. He was born in '79, and the plan from the first was that he will eventually get it (my younger son will get the '80 Trans Am). Anyway, does anyone have suggestions on where to mount the gauges or other suggestions? Any ideas would be helpful while pics would be great! Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom.

 

I've seen alot of people use one of those 3 gauge sets you can get at most parts stores,3 gauges in a small metal frame,then they either mount that frame on the bottom of the dash next to the column,or i have also seen some where they trim that metal frame,and fit it into the pocket in the front of the console under the radio hole.Putting it in the console pocket,i think looks the best,when done right,it almost looks like a factory option,plus that hides all the wires.

 

Good suggestions on locations, except for under the dash on either side of the column.
The problem with this location is the potential injury to the leg(s) in case of front end accident.

 

Yes! I always cringe when I see them mounted on either side of the column, under the dash! I had mine under the radio at one time, and I tossed the accessory panel that came with my three gauge set, and made an aluminum panel that fit in there snug, so I could put self stick foam around the edge and simply press it into that opening. I later put the chrome pods outside on the hood when I did one of the many remodels over 40 years.

 

not the best picture

I have since changed the lines and are not visible now when the hood is open

 

Thanks for the comments. I had similar thoughts. Years ago, I had started to put gauges below the dash but had the same concerns about possible injury plus just tight space there for legroom, especially since I used to frequently drive the Camaro on 12 hrs trips where you want to have some wiggle room.

The space below the radio looks to be the best place, and I think I can make it look almost original including hiding wires like B.M. mentioned. That just seemed to be a little inconvenient as you have to really take eyes off road to see them, almost like texting. I guess the redeeming part is that I will still have the idiot lights so it is not like I have to look at them really frequently. I grew up with gauges on almost everything from farm tractors, school buses, trucks, my '57 MGA, Mercedes, Jaguars, Trans Am, Buick Regal, Avalanche and Corvette so I like to have some idea of whether something has changed from normal. What got me thinking about this again is that I have been doing some work including new radiator, hoses, belts, and battery tray and got to thinking that it would be nice to have gauges. I thought ones with a black background and white lettering would probably look best. Now to figure out connections so idiot lights will still work and to have power for gauge lights!

Thanks again for all suggestions and "Happy Motoring!"

 

Oil pressure would be a 45° 'T', then add both the light switch and line fitting.
Or, if block is equipped with a 1/8 inch NPT plug on the front above the timing cover, use this port for the gauge.
The gauge will indicate oil pressure in the main galley.

If voltmeter is used, a good dash ground and quick disconnect slide onto the ACC spade in the fuse box.
If ammeter is chosen, they are used to show the charge condition of the battery, use #8 AWG wire and connect the gauge through the firewall to the horn relay buss bar.
Tie the ammeter between the buss bar and the single red wire going to the battery junction block. If ammeter reads charging with engine off, swap leads on the gauge.
Water temp uses its own supplied sensor and intake manifold on the front coolant runner would be the place, right next to the thermostat.

Idiot lights were used because a lit light got the driver's attention more than a gauge does. One reads a gauge, one glances at a light.
Power for the gauge lights would come from the INST spade on the fuse panel and controlled by the headlight switch, or tapped from the ACC power wire and controlled by the ign switch.

 

I found gauges to be easier the longer they are there. You get used to seeing all the needles at a certain spot, and after while you glance and notice if a needle isn't where it's always been. On my Camaro I used a dot of bright yellow paint applied on the gauge glass above the needle to indicate where it normally ran, so when it was at operating temp I could glance and see the needle/dot relationship.
Many race cars clock their gauges so when everything is normal the needles point straight up, but I don't care for the look of gauges all sitting at different angles.

 

Thanks for the suggestions and suggestions about connections. I had thought about turning the gauges so needle would be straight up or down but thought that might look strange in a street car.

I am debating the merits of a voltmeter vs ammeter. Gauge sets usually come with one or the other. Seems like most older cars came with an ammeter while newer ones seem to go with voltmeter. Not sure which would be better. The way I look at it, the ammeter will tell you whether the charging system is working while voltmeter will tell you the status of your battery. Since you can travel a good piece without the alternator working, the voltmeter may give a better idea of how far you might go since most cars will run until about 9+ volts. Plus, the idiot light is based on charging so I could still quickly see that the alternator is not charging. Sounds like I have convinced myself that voltmeter is the way to go. Any other ideas? Thanks again.

 

Volt meter!!!! It will indeed tell you if it's charging, as I had my alternator quit, and immediately you can see the voltage drop and continue to drop. It's also much safer to run a volt meter, as you don't want the charging circuit going through your amp gauge. That's why most modern cars now use a volt meter.