Value
#1
Value
I have a 1988 IROCZ with 14,000 original miles.
The car is white, 5.7, t-tops, a:c, all the bells and whistles that came with the car and in perfect condition all original always garage kept never in the rain or snow, a fair weather car.
I’ve been offered different prices if I wanted to sell this beauty.
Bases on what I’ve described can anyone tell me the value?
Thanking you in advance,
Bill
Her she is, I call her Devi Dog.
1988 all original.
The car is white, 5.7, t-tops, a:c, all the bells and whistles that came with the car and in perfect condition all original always garage kept never in the rain or snow, a fair weather car.
I’ve been offered different prices if I wanted to sell this beauty.
Bases on what I’ve described can anyone tell me the value?
Thanking you in advance,
Bill
Her she is, I call her Devi Dog.
1988 all original.
#2
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,357
These types of cars are the tuffest to value. Its al about supply and demand. At auction all it takes is two rich guys that really want it and it can sell for crazy numbers. This car could be sold to a person that plans on showing it for them its supply and demand that month. I would start with Hagerty.com numbers, who knows you may get a call an hour after you post it or it might be Spring before you get a call, Auctions are quick but it may be a waste of time if the right people are not there. I have seen cars sell so low I was tempted to bid on it just to take it to a different auction and I have seen cars sell for twice what I thought they where worth.
Sometime selling a car at a high end dealer on consignment is the way to go. Believe it or not there are guys out there that don't want to chase adds and don't want to go to auctions, They aren't even looking for a good deal, They just want someone they trust to find the dang car they want optioned the way the wanted it. That concept is foreign to me but I don't that millions of dollars siting in a bank. Might be worth it to find one of those dealers.
That fact its the 350 (5.7) and all original is what is driving the value. The 305 (5.0) are way more common.
Sometime selling a car at a high end dealer on consignment is the way to go. Believe it or not there are guys out there that don't want to chase adds and don't want to go to auctions, They aren't even looking for a good deal, They just want someone they trust to find the dang car they want optioned the way the wanted it. That concept is foreign to me but I don't that millions of dollars siting in a bank. Might be worth it to find one of those dealers.
That fact its the 350 (5.7) and all original is what is driving the value. The 305 (5.0) are way more common.
Last edited by Gorn; 12-02-2021 at 03:36 PM.
#3
Thanks
Thank you for the information.
I’m not currently in the market just seeking information.
Believe it or not I had one guy who offered me $30,000.00.
He was a Camaro guy and told me it’s one of the best original 1988 IROCZ he’s seen.
Thanks again.
I’m not currently in the market just seeking information.
Believe it or not I had one guy who offered me $30,000.00.
He was a Camaro guy and told me it’s one of the best original 1988 IROCZ he’s seen.
Thanks again.
#4
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,357
I am not surprised, anytime I talk real show car or selling on consignment I am talking a 25K+ car.
Have you checked Hagerty? What do you have it insured for? Regular insurance will never cover a car like this for its market value. Even if it just sits in storage you should have insurance on it. Hagerty prices classic car insurance use different calculations, they do take into account the miles are not in the daily grind the car is not driven in bad weather conditions and the fact most classic car owners drive very defensively. I Pay under $250 per year for year round coverage on 30k agreed value. They even warned me they could not replace my car for that value but I was real happy with that premium. The limits they placed on me where more then I would ever drive that car in a single year. Even my insurance agent told me just to go to the Hagerty because he could not come close to the deal I could get there.
I am know you probably know this but you need to get the coolant changes every 5 year. I only say that because its the biggest mistake I see on low miles cars. On the old all cast iron engine a brass radiators its not as critical but with that aluminum intake the acid build up from the sitting coolant will eat right through the intake. Once that coolant get into the oil it eat way the babbit on every bearing and it can cause an engine failure in minutes. I only say this because replacing the engine takes this from a 30K+ car to a 12K car, If you have not been doing this then you should also get a flush. The flushing chemicals neutralize existing acids. After that you can just drain and replace coolant every 5 years. I also use deionized water to avoid tap water issue.
Have you checked Hagerty? What do you have it insured for? Regular insurance will never cover a car like this for its market value. Even if it just sits in storage you should have insurance on it. Hagerty prices classic car insurance use different calculations, they do take into account the miles are not in the daily grind the car is not driven in bad weather conditions and the fact most classic car owners drive very defensively. I Pay under $250 per year for year round coverage on 30k agreed value. They even warned me they could not replace my car for that value but I was real happy with that premium. The limits they placed on me where more then I would ever drive that car in a single year. Even my insurance agent told me just to go to the Hagerty because he could not come close to the deal I could get there.
I am know you probably know this but you need to get the coolant changes every 5 year. I only say that because its the biggest mistake I see on low miles cars. On the old all cast iron engine a brass radiators its not as critical but with that aluminum intake the acid build up from the sitting coolant will eat right through the intake. Once that coolant get into the oil it eat way the babbit on every bearing and it can cause an engine failure in minutes. I only say this because replacing the engine takes this from a 30K+ car to a 12K car, If you have not been doing this then you should also get a flush. The flushing chemicals neutralize existing acids. After that you can just drain and replace coolant every 5 years. I also use deionized water to avoid tap water issue.
Last edited by Gorn; 12-03-2021 at 07:21 AM.
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