Gov Lock posi is just another name for the stock GM posi unit.

 

I just need to find a setup that'll work. Can you guys keep a look out for the posi unit and gears? After reading a bit it looks like the gov lock is the one to stay away from. Can't afford brand new but can afford shipping on something used.

 

I will. The link is to a front to BTW. I don't know if they will work.

 

I've never heard anyone say to stay clear of stock GM posi. They've always had a good rep for being well built.

 

The guy already sold the posi unit but still has the gears. So if you stumble across anything that would be great. Have no true opinion about the gov lock, I just typed it into a search and saw a lot of negative comments and videos of people calling it the time bomb. I'm trying to sell the rearend that I bought and now am being asked questions about it that I cant answer. Clutches or springs, teeth, are they stock axles?

 

I couldn't tell you what axles are in it. I would dare to say its a clutch posi. Its stock right? Teeth? How many? I dunno. One of my local junkyards has a good stock of B bodies. I'll ask if any have a posi. I doubt there are any though. The owner is a good guy but stuff like that goes to his special custumers.

 

I would "assume" when they say "teeth" they mean number of splines. Just tell them you think it's 28, and they are welcome to open the inspection cover to look at the internals and see the gear condition, and posi. That should stop the number of questions, and give them assurance that there's nothing to hide.

 

I'm not going to worry about it, if they want to come look, the cover's off. I just want to find something else soon! I'm not parking this car for the winter until this is done.

 

Not that this is really relevant to the thread ,so, here ya go. RPO code G80 on the build sheet, made by Eaton. So far, I've only seen them in GM trucks and vans, 10 bolt and both 14 bolt axles. I have yet to see one in a 10 bolt truck earlier than '88, doesn't mean it wasn't made. I had one in my '89 9.5" 14 bolt Suburban and my '80 10.5" 14 bolt K20 date coded '79. Not exactly the standard posi ya'lls used to. Think of it as more of an "active torque bias sensing, limited slip spool". The 9.5 is fair, the 10.5 can take a real pounding, the 10 bolt version is the worst. A 100 rpm difference between the axles causes it to lock, very violently, all that built up energy detonates the case. Not so good with wet pavement or a heavy foot. It is not my first choice for a traction adder for a 10 bolt. If you want, I can post up photos of the carnage that ensues when a Grenade 80 goes off. You tube has vids on how they work.

 

Maybe I can ask another way, if you gentlemen were changing an open diff to posi what route would you go? Being realistic about funds, but doesn't necessarily have to be the cheapest route either. Looks like the Auburn is good, I've heard of the Detroit Lockers before (pricey and needs special bearings so it says) I guess i'm curious what I should be looking for if it comes down to it and I have to buy new stuff. I'm a little reluctant to consider some of the stuff on ebay but found the Eaton posi unit and gears for a little over $500. New Auburn and/or Detroit Locker for just under $500 but would still need gears. If I can get this other rearend sold for close to what I paid for it or better than I'm only in need a few more bills to get new guts.