Well, I picked up a '72 last fall and the more I look at it the more I need to replace. Was a roller so I know I need an engine and trans. No interior to speak of but that's OK because I was a simple interior and set up for the track primarily. Needs electrical and brakes too. All this I figured will take some time and no problem.

However the more I look at it the more metal I think I need to fill / patch. I really hate bodywork mainly because I haven;t done too much of it at all. Then again I don't want a track car filled with Bondo, adding weight, when I will be trying to cut weight.

So how feasible (effort-wise, not money-wise) is it to just rebuild the car and replace basically a boat-load of metal. I am not going for a show car either. If I can get reproduction parts to line up good 'nough I'll take it.

I know that it probably will be cheaper in the long run to buy a car in better shape but I don't want to strip down a better condition vehicle for racing. I am an amateur welder and gaining experience and should be able to do most of the work myself. I am also planning on doing the painting myself also. This is a project for the kids and myself.

Here is my oldest (9 years old) helping take the doors off so we can strip them down and get them sandblasted. She was using a ratchet and said it was hard and taking too long. I said that's why God invented air tools and we broke out the air ratchet.



Ideas / thoughts?

 

Since you don't like bodywork, and you want to build a race car, then you might consider replacing a lot of the bolt on items with aftermarket fiberglass. If you want to drive it mainly on the street, but occasionally race it, then I wouldn't go that route.
Aftermarket repops of steel may be ill fitting, but I can tell you they are useable, just takes more time and effort than original stuff. Make sure you have a decent wirefeed welder (MIG) to make patch panel installs.
It will be a good project for you and the family if you keep everyone involved.

 

I have heard they are not as good as OEM / NOS stuff. Useable though with a little caressing?

I am learning on A MIG Flux and can deal with less splatter and more control. I am getting the basics down now and will be getting a better quality welder before doing any major welding on the body. I'm hoping with replacing a lot of the sheetmetal I won't have many patch panels.

I saw your build thread and gave me some ideas for the rear seat area.

 

The good thing is for a racer you can use plain old sheet metal for floors and such. Saving tons. If your not worried about the money side I'd say your on the right track. Learning to weld is awesome. I am amateur myself. Then again, I'm not professional anything. I'm just really good at stuff I try. Practice helps. I have never done a smooth firewall but I'm getting ready to try it.

Really. If your not scared of the hard work then do it. I had my 3yr old helping DA today. I just hope theres fuel to run it when he's old enough to drive.

 

I have an article from a magazine a few months back on this if you want (shoot me an IM you email address if you want me to scan and send it to you.) I'm seeing a possibility of doin this too as I already pulled the heater core and blower and am sealing up the hole.


I hear ya brother!

I am worried a little about some of the rust in areas. I really don't want to replace the roof and supports, I have some concerns. Most I thought may be surface rust. I was wondering using a rust-stop product and smoothing the areas with lightweight filler. Like I said, I really don't want to replace a ton of metal. I made a long list of all the metal and the costs. It's a bit but I figure the amount of time and money to patch, fill and sand etc.. will off-set or allow me to break even.

 

All of the repop stuff can be made to work, but some of it takes more work than rebuilding stock pieces. Both of my front fenders required the holes hogged out to mate to the header panel and lower valance, which then required me to use washers on the bolts to ensure a good solid connection. The tabs that bolt to the firewall required completely cutting them off and moving them almost an inch to line up with the holes in the firewall.
If you're going to a flat firewall, and not just smoothing your stock one, then you need to go heavier than stock metal. The various shapes and ridges in a stock firewall give it strength that you wont have with flat. I went to 16 ga. on my Austin, and still had to put bracing inside to help support the hanging brake pedal/master setup. They can really flex under torque, or braking.
I'd consider filling the stock one if it's useable, and cleaning it up, rather than replacing with flat material, if you can.

 

I'm planning on just the passenger side though. Nothing hanging from it. I will stop right where the wrinkles are on the trans tunnel. To the OP I can't see it being too hard. Measure and cut. Then weld. Thanks for the offer though.