If you have regular old 305 klunker heads, then they are boat anchors. However, if they are HO heads, they have good potential.
The brake shoes wear down the area of the drum where the shoes make contact. The outer most part of the brake surface of the drum (the part closest to the leaf springs) winds up getting a raised lip because the shoes don't ride all the way out to the edge. That ridge is what your brakes are hung up now. If you remove the cover from your master cylinder, or crack open the bleeder valve on the wheel cylinder, you might be able to get enough inward movement of the wheel cylinder to be able to force the drum off.

 

Well, I tried everything. I couldn't get the adjuster to un adjust, I cracked open the bleeder valve and got no result other than some brake fluid on the ground. I finally ended taking a 6 foot rod, from the other side and hammered the drum off. Odly enough, there's no ridge on the brake drum, HOWEVER, there was a sticky substance all over the inside of the brake drum. The pads were stuck to the drum. I hosed the thing off with 2 cans of brakekleen, and everything popped back into place. I think the wheel seal is leaking inside the hub. I guess its a good thing that it's all apart now.
The shoes, and the drum are in good shape tho. The pads on the front look relatively new too.
So, I looked at the number on the heads again. Its 3998993, apparently from a 350 with 1.72 intake and 1.50 exhaust. Not as bad as I expected. I'm waiting on the guy to call me back about the vortec heads. I'm undecided as to whether to buy them now. Thoughts?
Also, how do i figure out if this thing has a posi? When I move one side, the other one moves too. Is this any kind of indicator?
I'm now hunting an edelbrock carb id site. Does anyone have one?

 

If you jack the rearend up and turn one wheel, the other will turn the same direction if it's posi. If the other turns opposite direction it's an open rear axle.

 

Bummer, I figured one just kind of freewheeled.

 

My 4 spd tranny will be here late next week. I figure It'll make more sense to pull the motor to put it in (I may be putting the cart in front of the horse, this car has lots of little issues, but I want it running). Since I'll have the motor out I'm gonna change all the gaskets...it leaks all over, and paint it. I figure since I'm gonna have it torn apart, I may as well throw a cam in it. I have an edelbrock performer intake, and 4 barrel carb (i believe to be a 750 cfm, but am still tryig to confirm that) that I'm gonna put on. That 2 brl hurts my feelings every time I look at it....But I digress
Should I go that far with it? And if so, what size cam do you guys think I should go with.

400 sb 4 bolt mains
350 heads 1.72 inkake/1,50 exhaust
750 Edelbrock carb (supposedly)
Edelbrock Performer intake
Summit exhaust system

p.s. the little stuff (haha) that I've uncovered, like brakes/leaky axle seals will be fixed first

 

I personally wouldn't go that route. If I was pulling the engine to replace all the gaskets and install the tranny, I'd go ahead and do a rebuild. The engine kit for a 350SBC is only about $222 complete with pistons, and that would get you all the gaskets too! You'll spend $100 plus just for a gasket set. (Summit Racing)
I'd pull the engine and tear it down, then see if the rods, mains, and bore are in good shape, then decide which kit you need. The price doesn't change regardless of whether it's a .010" or .030" over, or if the mains and rods are over too.
Toss in a cam kit for another $100 from Summit and you're ready to go, without having to do it all again later. I'd go with this kit; 282/282 duration with 465" lift. Very nice street/strip cam, similar to the old Duntov factory hi performance cam:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K1104/

 

1971BB427, I was kind of thinkin that too. I'm doin this on the cheap for now, but, now that I hear someone else say it, I might as well do it right the first time.
Funny, that's the cam I was thinking about...just sounded a little big (to me)for a DD. That's pretty close to what I had in my Chevelle (25 yrs ago), and everyone said it was "too much"
thanks,
ross

 

I've had that cam in a couple of small block Chevy engines and it's just about right I think. Might be a bit too much in a automatic car, but Chevy used them in auto cars. Perfect for a stick car I think. I built a 283 with stock bore, 10.5:1 pistons, 1.94 fueler heads, Edelbrock intake and 650 Holley, with headers and that cam. It wasn't too much in my '55 Chevy, and I drove it back and forth to work daily. In a larger displacement engine it would work even better.

 

I was kind of thinkin about holding off for a couple of months on the rebuild. (I got a whole bunch of things goin at one time with this car). But apparently the Camaro Gods want me to rebuild the motor now.
I put new plugs and wires on her today, just to see if she'd run better. I hit the key once, and she fired, smothed out and got happy. I looked underneath, just for giggles, and saw water dripping from my a-frame. I can't locate the source, It's not running down the engine anywhere I can see. It's not in the oil, it's just dripping.
When I stop the motor, the drip stops. I was kind of thinking that maybe a freeze plug I couldn't see rusted through, but who knows. I guess now I'll pull it for sure, and start my rebuild.
What the heck, that'll be the perfect oportunity to clean up my engine bay and remove my a/c.

 

Stick with us buddy! We'll help you spend your money! Glad you found a reason to pull the motor!