For those of you who helped me get my '77 Camaro started, THANK YOU!!!
Here we go. I will upload some pics of the car tomorrow...

Well, It runs...thank the Good Lord.

It also comes with a 400 sb 4 Bolt Main, (not orig).

Today I scored an M20 tranny plus pedal set (less bellhousing), for $400, so things are about to get silly on my driveway/.

But i have a few questions...

Does anyone know the part number for the M 20 belhousing???

The only thing I'll be missing (sans belhousing is the zbar), how do I acquire one (wht do I look for/how do I make one???)

and...What type of output shaft will I need to make my driveshaft mate up transmission side...Now that I think about it, will it (the transmnission?) nneed a new bracket??

Also, I keep hearing about trans tunnels for 4 spds, is it that important???, or can I just cut a hole (I'm not joking...back in the day, we just cut a hole for the gear shift, and didn't worrry about it much, at least in my neck of the woods)

Thoughts???
Comments???

 

Tamaraz has what you need for about 110-120. Check ebay.

 

Any post '64 aluminum bellhousing will work with any GM type 4 spd, regardless of maker. You don't need the hump on the floor unless you're trying to make it look factory. I sure wouldn't care myself, but I'm not really hung up on a original look.
Should be able to buy one from Ebay, or a wrecking yard fr around $50.

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories

 

Thanks for the assist on the parts guys! I've been looking, and didn't know what would fit, or not. I research as much as I can (without getting so mad at google I want to throw my computer out the window). The haynes manual I bought doesn't seem to be as helpful as I remember they were...haha.
Well, I demo'd my interior today and was pleasantly suprised. I figured I was going to need floor pans all the way from the front to the back. Not the case. http://s825.photobucket.com/albums/zz179/rossredcamaro/
Looks like I'm just gonna have to patch a couple of places in the front, and replace the seat pans (is that what they're called?) in the back. I've got to figure out where the water is coming in tho. I was climbing around in the trunk, with a flashlight and am kind of perplexed why things are not as nasty in my floorboards as I expected. I didn't get enough pics, it started raining, but at least I got all the carpet/padding off the floor.
I was supposed to go back to work tomorrow, but I took 2 more weeks off so I can get stupid with the camaro and finish my honey do list.

 

Water in the rear floor pans usually comes in from the side window weatherstripping being bad, or the side window out of adjustment. It gathers in the pan and the carpets keep it from drying up. Eventually it rusts out.
Any rust caused from water in the front is usually from the bottom outside corners of the windshield, and it's not uncommon for even very rust free 2nd gen Camaros to have the dash corners rusted out a little. My Camaro had almost zero rust, but had pitting in those corners of the dash when I had the windshiled replaced. Fortunately the guys at the glass shop were in no hurry, so I was able to fix it right in their shop before they installed the new glass. Be sure and check that area even if you don't replace the windshield.
I had both front and rear windows pulled to check, and they replaced the rear with no issues. The rear window seals can often leak into the trunk, so good to check both, even if you don't need new glass. Better than waiting after paint and finding it then!

 

That's the wierd thing, if it (water) was coming in from the window seals, the front part of the floor pan woulod have been gone. But, It looks like it was collecting under the back seats. There are a couple of spots around the rear window it may have been coming in, but I can't find where it made it's way into the passenger compartment. All the lanes of travel are clean. I'll probably find it tomorrow, (prolly a really nasty suprise waits for me), but, it just struck me as wierd that everything else underneath was still painted and in half decent shape. I just want to find where it's entering, so I can divert it before I start fixing the interior sheet metal.

 

Need to get that rear window trim off and look at the seal. Might not be really visable but look for spots on the window seal that are not as dark. That's usually a sign that the seal is bad. Water going down the inside of the body wont usually show as it runs down the vertical pretty fast, then puddles in the floor pans.
I didn't see any pictures at your photobucket site that shwed the interior trim removed on the sail panels or side in the back seat area. Is it off yet so you can see what might be going on there?

 

What are everyone's thoughts on using a thin coat of bed liner to seal my interior? Maybe it sounds ridiculous, but, My floorboards are actually better than I expected. I'll have to put panels in where my rear seats go and patch a couple of other areas, but after that, my interior is pretty solid. The bedliner I used on my truck and on a couple of my friends trucks is pretty thin, compared to alot of the others. It's spray on, and pretty tough.
Since the leak around my rear window is going to take a minute, and I was planning on sound deadening most of the interior down the road, I figure the bedliner will be a good start to that after I've patched all the hole in the interior.

Or, am I looking at this backwards???Should I address the exterior first, then start inside? I can go either direction, there are a multitude of things I can do while waiting for my body panels to arrive.
Any/all input welcome

Thanks,
r

 

I'd definitely get the floors done inside first! Then move to outside panels, and running gear.(engine, tranny, suspension)
I've heard of people using bedliner before, but it's not the greatest sound deadener. It will really prevent future rust, but once you're done it shouldn't have any leaks or rust in your lifetime. I'd stick with one of the commercial sealer paints like POR15, or other less expensive equivalents.
My biggest problem with bedliner would be if anything ever flew up on the road and punctured a floor pan. I'm not sure how you'd ever fix the pan with bedliner coating on it. It might make one heck of a problem getting it off to weld a repair in.

 

I've been using "Raptor Liner", for about 4 yrs now, It's affordable, tough as nails...if applied correctly, and relatively thin, compared to its competitors.


B.B. You think it makes more sense for me to start inside the car???
That's what I think, but I've been attacking things from the wrong angle lately...Thanks for the sanity check.
As far as fixability later???I don't forsee any major issues...We'll see, the first time I smoke a drive tire. But, I 'll take that chance
Thanks again
r