Interesting......

 

Lol.. Thanks. And welcome to camaro forums. Sweet looking ride you got there.

 

Hey I calculated a best 522 flywheel horsepower at 3660 lbs with driver and 92mph trap speed. Am I close?

 

Sorry havent checked this in a while. I thought so, but idk. Even when I ran it with the lowest numbers I conservatively got around 500. Ie if you use 92 mph it was 3778lbs. 95 was at 3659(3660). But my et hp and mph hp never match. Et is around 450 hp, which I interpret as I got 60+/- I'm not getting down. That's my main point. That you don't really need a dyno as its physics and math at that. When your et and mph hp match you have optimized your setup. That's why slower cars(mph) can be quicker(et). But it's easier for the faster(mph) to pick up et(suspension)than the adverse. Picking up mph means adding power or removing 10lbs/1hp. But that won't show as power increase in calculations. That's why adding weight and pedaling(pulling power) netted me quicker et's, bc I wasn't overpowering it as bad. Also why mph dropped. One other thing it does make power over 7k I don't care what anybody says. Shifting at 7200=best et and mph, and it will turn 8k...got a vid of it doing it if anyone wants to see.

 

Here's a good example of HP/ET from many years ago. In the 60's NHRA had their old Gas coupe classes which were set up for weight per cubic inch, plus special categories for supercharged vs. normally aspirated engines.
In the top class were the AA/GS cars which ran 5.0-8.99 lbs. per cubic inch, and the BB/GS cars that ran in the 9.0-12.59 lbs. per cubic inch. Both classes ran similar engines, as there were no restrictions on what you did to the engines. Both cars ran the same slicks, as no restriction on tire size either. Basically they were identical cars with the BB/GS cars carrying 4 lbs. per cubic inch more weight. But this is where it gets interesting. Since both competed separately, they only lined up against each other when their particular class was done, and they ran for the Eliminator class to determine the best car that weekend. More than half the time the BB/GS cars would win against the lighter AA/GS cars, and the reason was they could get their tires hooked up.
So all these calculators, and estimates of power based on speed and ET are not exact science. There are variables that can't be taken into calculated, so the only way to really determine the HP is to lock the car down on a dyno and see what the numbers really say.

 

Yep, and I would do that if I really cared. But IMO mph and times mean more as a performance standard for those reasons. True i may have more than the calculators show due to driver error and traction, but it wont be less is my point. Heck if I keep beating 450-500 hp cars with my 200hp I'm happy. Im no light weight either. Times mph are real world I'll just keep spanking the dyno queens....the reason this thread even exists is I beat a guy with a dyno sheet showing 487hp crank and we were within 130lbs of each other. Me being the heavier one. He has been racing for years so he can drive. He asked me about my motor and all I had was specs no hp rating. He thought I sprayed him then he thought it was a BB. I've had several guys (oldschoolers) say that they are always without a doubt within 5% doing this way vs dyno, but I feel there is more gained from mph/et as you are actually moving the car not just a roller. Then you get wind resistance and other factors that are more REAL world. In other words how good am i at using the hp or how much Do i have the skill to use. if i run 94 and someone else jumps In and runs 96 they are a better driver. I'm sure if you check with a lot of the pro teams they all use something similar to set their tunes and suspension settings. This was first introduced to me by a 40 year racer that has done Nhra events. I'm kinda over this whole discussion so to end it we can surely agree I'm making at least 200hp and 195 ft/lbs . Anybody with around 3700lbs and 450 hp wanna run em? He he ill even just use 1st. Was enough for a 420hp coyote and a 450hp SS(supposedly but not less than 426) with my 200hp. Ran an 8.64 using only first and coasting last 100' Ss/coyote running 8.8-9.1. Ss is heavier by about 250lbs. coyote not so much. Pretty good for 100hp (dyno)huh. BB you are right I'm just over the whole arguing thing and I've been at the track many times the last year and met many veteran racers(a street car among trailer queens draws attention) that tell me my 400hp rating is way off at 3700 lbs, I tell them I'm a good driver but you can't fool those guys. I'm not that guy that has 1,000,000 hp I'm the guy that's chasing 6's in his street car, after all if I can run that with 2hp fine by me. Just like the post that brought this back to life from ZL1 most people that see it run tell me that it has to be that number(I'm not even gonna say it anymore). I will respond to posts but I'm not interested in discussing power any longer simply mph and times as those are the numbers that interest me and evidently I've learned that those have nothing to do with hp/weight....I also made my point that yes it will outrun the new iron with them trying and that it is not just an average mid 12 car. He he someone tried to make fun of me and it backfired on them that's really why I kept thread going. So to whoever made that statement ha ha.... Shoulda waited till I posted slips and vids. Check online and you'll see this 1st gear run is better than 420-450hp iron coming out with all their gears, so it wouldn't really matter if they "were trying" or not... And that's 8,000 rpm baby..... Crazy how it does that even though it won't...lol

 

Good attitude. What really matters is who crosses the finish line first! The rest is irrelevant if you're winning.
Back in the late 60's I ran a '55 Chevy 2 dr. sdn. that was a 283 ci engine. Stock bore and stroke, balanced, blueprinted, a 30-30 Duntov solid lifter factory cam, ported and polished 1.94"/1.60" heads, and a dual quad Edelbrock intake with twin AFB carbs. 3.90 rear gears, with a 4 speed Muncie. There was no 1/8 mile racing back then, and the old Chevy would pull the front wheels at launch, and turned 1/4 mile times in the 12 second range. It beat a number of much larger engined cars, including many that had more than 100 c.i. on my car. I got protested often at first, and later only when someone who was not a local came to race and wouldn't believe the c.i. I claimed in my class.
My car hooked up great, and effortlessly wound to 7,000 rpm every shift. I carried the protest results in the glove box whenever I went to the track, as I just wanted to avoid having the engine torn down, even if the other person did end up losing their protest, and handing their protest fee to me.
I drove the car on the street a lot also, and don't really encourage it, but made a fair amount of money at street races when some newbie thought his 396 Chevelle would easily beat my 283 back then. After the race they'd always accuse me of having a bigger engine, and I'd show them my last protest sheet too! Good times!
A lot of guys have all sorts of guesstimates of their engine HP, but have never taken their car to the dragstrip to find out how fast it really is. They have no idea if their car will hook up at the track, or how quick it really is. At least you're running yours occasionally and know what it does, and how it's improved with the changes you've made. I see guys at the strip today, and they think there's something wrong with the timers when their car is so far off the ET they thought it would run!

 

Thank you. Seems we have a few things in common. I like to be different too. Lol the 283 was always underrated but they will flat out turn some rpm's and a smaller motor turning faster has just as much potential as a big motor turning slower. They are just air pumps after all. That was the main thing I was warned about by my builder: to get a smallblock to run with the bb's you will have to turn it more. My reply build it to handle it then.... I really doubted him at first as to his claims but he built every one of my dad's back in the day and he seems to not be bsing at this point. Ever heard of Butler Performance in Leoma Tn? That's where I'm from. They've been on power nation a number of times. Mine was built by their machinist Ronnie Dodson and I consider him an uncle. My grandpa sponsored them before they became world renown. So it was built right over 3 agonizing months. 20 hours alone on the heads and they are great out of the box. Im trying to get a c6 lined up for this weekend... Lol he thinks I simply have an antique 78 smallblock bc that's all I told him... Will let you know how it goes. Kinda like your 283 scenario..he's not gonna be happy bc I tell most people it's a 305. Is that wrong?...lol funny the street cars all race to get beside me my first pass then I get stuck with the trailer queens on TNT night. I can look back in my mirror on the way to the staging lanes and see the mustang owners running to their cars to get beside me. Joke ends up being on them and boy have I heard some excuses... I like the I got two fouled plugs so that was only 6 cylinders.

 

I've heard of Butler Performance often, especially from my Pontiac friends. They have a good reputation, especially for their Pontiac performance engines!
I'm usually pretty straight forward about what I'm running, but since the 327 went bad in my Austin gasser, I'll still be telling people it's a 327 since the emblems are on the side grilles of the hood. Not trying to fool anyone, just don't want to change the emblems. Ever since I built the car people see the emblems and ask, "Is it really a 327?" So now I'll have just smile and say yes. No way to tell now since the block was decked and the numbers are gone on the pad, plus I still have the old 327 heads on it.

 

Would you reconsider now?
Well I got an awesome surprise. Looks like all the work over winter paid off!! I ran a 7.08@101. Was totally expecting the et drop but 5-6 mph is HUGE! I was guessing 2-3 but didn't calculate that part. Using those formulas it is right in line. Mods were: Full chassis/suspension rebuild with stock style performance parts. Intake. Borrowed slicks. Race gas. About 170lbs out(3607vs3778) (ballast, qts oil/trans, water bottles, tool box and I'm sure I lost some . Removed 7 blade fan(about 8-10lbs) And leaving at FULL throttle for first time ever. Oh shifted at 7500 instead of 7200. Now I'm going the other way instead of pulling power (adding weight&pedaling) I might need more.... I think I'm gettin it all down now. Now that's squeezing the ever loving crap outta 400 ponies...my feelings were never hurt btw I just KNEW I wasnt getting it ALL down, but I also understood that I would be just like you in my responses, plus you were right i didnt have evidence but knew it was just a matter of time and kept posting to show my progress so not to get called out going from 7.90's-7.08(over a years time), that being said this is not directed at you but the ones who thought they would laugh at me....I know of no other car out there over 3500 lbs that runs 7 flat @over 100 with 400hp.....only using 1st&2nd. Shifting at higher rpms has proven higher mph every time I go up, I just stopped at 7200. Started at 6200 bc of people on forums even though builder said shift it at 7500, well that and i am just now getting the ***** to actually do it. Anyways what would you do next? Would really like a 6.99 but that was one screaming smallblock and one drawn up..well you know...so it's gonna need to be weight, stall or gear I think. 2200 stall, 3607, 3.42 gear but no OD. I'm thinking weight, but no doors bc STREET car gets priority. Doing trans winter so really stall is out too I guess.