EFE valve

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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 01:15 PM
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I have changed the air cleaner in my 78 but, the PO has removed the EFE valve on the exhaust manifold. So now, every time I run my engine, exhaust is free to flow everywhere under the hood. Is there something I can buy to block it off? I don't really care about emissions, tbh, but exhaust under the hood is annoying.
 
Old Aug 31, 2012 | 04:52 PM
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I found from a local guy that you have to get the efe valve and just keep it shut, which run about $75. I'd rather invest a bit more and go ahead and upgrade my headers. I've been looking everywhere for what length the originals headers are (ie shorty, full length etc). Also, any recommendations?
 
Old Sep 1, 2012 | 07:28 PM
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I have know idea what a efe valve is. EGR? Nothing should dump raw exhaust under the hood.
 
Old Sep 1, 2012 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 77nomad
I have know idea what a efe valve is. EGR? Nothing should dump raw exhaust under the hood.
It is the early fuel evaporation valve. From what I've read, it sounds like anti-cold air intake. It was a valve with some type of temp sensor that opens when the engine is first started and closes when it reaches warmer temps. The warm air is then directed into the intake to warm the carb on a cold start. The efe valve sits on an opening on the header, but since he removed it, there is just a 2 1/2" hole in my header.

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Just ignore the leaky valve covers and lack of suspension. If I stuck my finger in there, I'm in the exhaust.
 

Last edited by RamzaFreak20; Sep 1, 2012 at 11:25 PM.
Old Sep 1, 2012 | 11:43 PM
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I'm not seeing in the picture what you're talking about. An EFE valve is a butterfly that goes between the exhaust manifold and header pipe. It's a cast iron piece that's about an inch thick. It's purpose is to restrict exhaust flow on that side when the engine is cold, which will keep more hot air in the heat crossover passage in the intake manifold, which helps to warm up the engine and carb faster. It has a vacuum canister to open the butterfly as the engine warms up, then exhaust is flowing free again. What I'm seeing in the picture is the tin manifold radiant heat riser that a flexible tube connects from the air cleaner snorkel (also controlled by a vacuum canister and flapper valve). Are you showing something different from that, and are you actually getting open exhaust flow from somewhere?
 
Old Sep 2, 2012 | 08:52 AM
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Wow. I feel dumb now.. I'm just glad I didn't pay to have new headers installed by Mr. Shady. I am getting what looks like exhaust from the tin heat riser, but it could be oil cooking off of the above leak valve covers.

Thanks again
 
Old Sep 2, 2012 | 11:27 AM
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That riser on the exhaust manifold is only attached to the outside, and heat radiates up and into the tube that was attached. There is no connection to the inside, so it can't be blowing exhaust out of there. You could even cut that tin off if you wanted to, and have a normal appearing exhaust manifold. Look down inside, you'll see the rest of the top of the manifold.
 
Old Sep 3, 2012 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by BrandyAdam
I've been looking everywhere for what length the originals headers are (ie shorty, full length etc). Also, any recommendations?
Once more...they did'nt come with headers when they were "original". Get whatever you want, as originals came with cast iron exhaust manifolds, not headers.
 
Old Sep 3, 2012 | 10:16 AM
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on the third gen cars they used an EFE spacer...i went through this building my Monte Carlo SS project a few years ago. the edelbrock headers needed this spacer and it was impossible to get one. i actually do have an extra out in the shed in case such an occasion. it should fit your exhaust. you wont be able to properly seal that gap up with the exhaust spacers from the parts place, its still gonna leak. been there already and learned the hard way! PM me if you would like it.
 

Last edited by nj85z28; Sep 3, 2012 at 10:19 AM.
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