Drag strip results?

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Old May 5, 2010 | 02:33 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Rizzo408
appreciate the responses guys, ill look into that... i plan to rebuild my 350, bore out cylinders, cam, lifters, springs, pistons, roller rockers. the comp cams i was looking into said that a stock converter should work fine, but should i change it just to be on the safe side?
No, I wouldn't change it if they say the cam is good for stock converters, unless you think they're lying to you.
 
Old May 5, 2010 | 08:11 PM
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no i dont think they're lying. i was reading the xtreme energy hydraulic flat tappet camshafts, they say 268H is the highest it can go for a stock converter, but i want the 274H but it says it needs a 2200+ stall...
 
Old May 5, 2010 | 09:20 PM
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The stock Duntov cam used on factory fuel injected Corvettes was a 290 and it was behind a automatic with a lower stall converter. I know Chevy rated their cam specs differently, but it was a pretty lumpy cam that still worked fine behind an auto.
 
Old May 5, 2010 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Bing
never taken the camaros on the strip...yet. my 74 camaro is still being built (i got a 400small block in there but had it stroked so now it's a 408. Got bowtie heads, 205 and 160 valves, roller cam, roller rockers, super vic intake,750 holley db pumper, 150 dome pistons, crowler roller lifters, MSD dist, built 350 turbo trans with shift kit, 3200 b&m stall) so i'll be interested to get that out on the drag strip. However, we only have a 1/8mile strip, unless i do as some suggest and flip around real fast.
However, i did take the mustang on the strip... *gasps* i own a Ford?!? what can i say? it was my first car.... not proud of those numbers (but what do you expect from a v6?)
What crank did you use to stroke a 400 to a 408? Are you sure its not bored 40 over with a stock stroke?
 
Old May 5, 2010 | 10:12 PM
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i can't say i know how to answer that question. this is all new to me. If you tell me how i could know i'll find out, but that mod was done before i got the engine.
 
Old May 5, 2010 | 10:21 PM
  #26  
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I know you didn't ask for anyone's opinion, so if mine annoys you just ignore me, but your build seems a little extreme for the street. If you're using 150 cc domes on your pistons and your bowties are cast iron, even with 72 or 76 cc chambers your compression ratio will be too high for 92 octane pump gas. A cam with a killer overlap will help but not enough to keep it from rattling under load. Maybe you've already danced to this tune. If so, good luck, this thing should be fast.
 
Old May 5, 2010 | 10:32 PM
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no man, i welcome your opinion. Like i said, this is knew to me. But i should have explained what i meant. It's new to me in the sense of i've never messed with such engine mods. My other car mods have always been small and easy, like cold air intakes and new carbs.
This engine only runs off 92octain and runs better\best with 98octain. It's strictly driven on a track. The previous owner lived behind the lowes speedway (Concord NC) and the only time it was on the road was when he drove it to the speedway. He showed me an older dyno of the car and it was running lower end of 500hp. I'm pretty sure it's safe to say this is a track car only.
Hey, i'm about to remove the engine, hopefully this saturday. Can you give me any pointers? Im going to remove the transmission, but i've never done that before. It looks easy enough.
I'm removing my intake and the carb so it won't be damaged. What would you suggest cover those areas with so nothing gets in the engine?
 
Old May 6, 2010 | 02:17 AM
  #28  
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I think you meant to say a 15 cc dome, as a 150 cc dome is pretty crazy. If you are removing the tranny and engine as a unit, you'll have to take off the tranny crossmember by removing the tranny mount attachment in the center of the crossmember, then supporting the tailshaft housing with a floor jack or something similar and removing the crossmember bolts that hold it to the frame. Put a yoke in the end of the tailshaft housing if you don't want to go swimming in tranny fluid, and remember to disconnect the speedo and shift cable. On the engine, I pull the distributor so I don't whack it on the firewall and stuff rags in the distributor hole and the intake manifold to avoid errant hardware from ruining my day. Make sure your oil pressure sending unit, alternator, and starter are disconnected. There's probably something I forgot, but at least this will give you an idea.

Why are you removing the engine and tranny? Do they need a rebuild? By the way, if you're tearing it down you can measure the crank throws to establish the stroke. A stock stroke for a 400 is 3.75 inches, which I'm pretty sure you have if your displacement is 408 CI.
 
Old May 6, 2010 | 09:59 AM
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Bing> Where in NC are you? I'm in Raleigh basically.

A 408 is usually a .040 over bore (4.165 inch bore) 400 with stock stroke. If you can get the numbers off the crank you can also see what it is. You can stroke even larger by changing the crank. I was thinking about going with a 434 in mine but I've heard that it's pretty rough on the piston skirts and cylinder wall. It's good for racing and if you plan on tearing your engine down at the end of the season but other than that I was told by a few engine builders to not put it in a street car just because of the wear and tear it can go through.
 

Last edited by kyphur; May 6, 2010 at 10:07 AM.
Old May 6, 2010 | 02:47 PM
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This explains why i'm taking the engine out.

i live in Milton, about 60miles from Raleigh. I'm a hop skip and a jump away from VIR. In fact, i rent a house out to many of the VIR guys.

well i got home from work sooner than i thought and because it's hot as hell outside i'm gonna hold off on farm work and i'll pull the car around n the shade and start removing the engine.
 



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