Changing my intake manifold gasket

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  #41  
Old 05-21-2011, 06:53 PM
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Huh! pretty neat stuff. well i rotated it about an inch couter clockwise and guess what! slipped right in. I didn't even think to go on youtube. You guys have been an enormous amount of help through out this whole deal. But, im not out of the woods yet, lets see if i can get the carb on haha. Thanks 69!
 
  #42  
Old 05-21-2011, 07:55 PM
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is it possible that the oil pump drive rod could have shifted a couple degrees even if the motor didnt turn over at all?
 
  #43  
Old 05-21-2011, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mr.blue
is it possible that the oil pump drive rod could have shifted a couple degrees even if the motor didnt turn over at all?
The oil pump shaft can't turn on it's own. But even if it could have, you then would have needed to reach down with a screwdriver and turn it a little so everything would mesh again.
 
  #44  
Old 05-21-2011, 10:37 PM
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I usually spin the motor around until it grabs. Being a rookie don't try it. Thats for when you are comfortable with the dizzy and timing in general.
 
  #45  
Old 05-22-2011, 12:09 AM
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well...im having carb issues now. (image is before i took everything apart)
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I started the car and it seemed to run fine. the only thing is, it was pouring gas out of the part that is circled in red. I tightened that and didn't want to start it again unless someone was there watching. I also noticed that the part circled in blue was very hot after only a couple seconds of running. Is that normal?
Then
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Should the part circled in red be fully extended?
I dont have the part circled in blue hooked up, and i honestly dont even know what it is. Either way, now the flap on the top of the carb wont move at all. What do i need to do?
 
  #46  
Old 05-22-2011, 12:41 AM
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Picture 1 blue: your choke mechanism has a wind up coil that gets heated up electrically to make it turn and operate the choke.
red: since you tightened the fitting, it must have been loose. Put a rag on the intake manifold below the fitting and try running the engine again.
2nd picture red: Yes that cable should be fully extended, it's the throttle linkage from the gas pedal.
blue: that cable goes to the transmission. But it's not a conventional "kickdown" cable like I'd expect to see. That's looking like a TV (throttle valve) cable to me. What year is your car? And do you have a pic showing the cable further back where it mounts on the bracket?
 
  #47  
Old 05-22-2011, 01:10 AM
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This is the closest i have right now. I know there is a vacuum line that controls the kick down. When i first bought the car it wouldn't down shift so, not knowing a thing about the car, i brought it to a shop and they hooked up a vacuum line that fixed the problem. And its an 81.
 
  #48  
Old 05-22-2011, 01:16 AM
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Ok, that's just a kickdown cable, I'm more used to the slide arm type of linkage. Make sure it's connected before you take the car for a drive, it's still important to have it working.
 
  #49  
Old 05-22-2011, 01:24 AM
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ok. yea the nut that holds that to the carb is a little stripped and it will not go on. So, ill have to pick one up tomorrow, then i'll post again. Thanks for your help. Honestly, through this whole project you have been like a haynes or chilton on steroids lol. i can already tell though, by adjusting the throttle cable the gas is much stiffer. I'm excited to see what kind of difference that makes.
 
  #50  
Old 05-22-2011, 02:00 PM
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My car has a very high idle right now, im riding the brakes on the 25mph roads. im assuming it has to do with the distributor. Do i just need to unbold the distributor hold down and then twist the entire distributor counter clockwise until i have a good idle? Also, the tranny kick down cable. how does that need to be mounted. Should it be very tight? loose? when i come to a stop you can feel a pronounced shift.
 


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