A coat of clear would help protect the paint. Also note that carb cleaner takes paint off better than gas does.
As far as the oil, use a good multigrade, like 10w40 for the summer. Using straight weight oil is not a good idea. Since straight weight doesn't flow nearly as easily as multi grade oil does (when the engine's not hot), it's harder on the bearings when you first start the engine. That's one of the reasons why multi grade exists, to give better oiling protection on a cold engine.

 

i have found that when setting the intake in if you use 4 pieces of pencil stuck in the intake bolt holes on the head you will not have it moving around and ruining the rtv on the ends. also can set the manifold down on the pencil guides if needed. set the manifold on the motor without gaskets or rvt to make sure the pieces of pencil are long enough to get ahold of to get them out after intake is installed. if you make them to long its hard to get the manifold down and if to short you cant get them out.

 

nomad that looks really good. Did you throw a coat of clear on yours? And i definitely experienced how well carb cleaner takes off paint when i thought it would be a good idea to clean my valve covers with it. So, as far as oil goes, 10w30 then?

Also yesterday when cleaning off the heads i realized i broke a bolt off. 45 minutes i drilled out my first broken bolt. I think im going to get new bolts today, the other ones look pretty old. And thats after soaking them over night with a mixture of "air craft grade" paint remover, engine degreaser, some carb cleaner, and a little MAFS cleaner.

 

I don't spill. Like I said, a spay can cap holds exactly one bowl full of fuel.

 

You'll be fine with 10w30. No clear coat. I am planning a air gap when I can get the pennies saved. It seems like my wife has a plan for every weekend that uses up my car fund.

 

Lol i have a girlfriend like that. We've been together for 3 years and its like, as soon as i save up enough to buy something cool for my car its her bday, an anniversary, valentines day, etc.

Is there a certain grade of bolt i should be looking for. I think 5 would be fine. I just don't want them breaking off when i go to torque it, or next time i pull the manifold off.

 

The intake bolts aren't under a lot of stress, and they don't require heavy duty torque. Even grade 5 is overkill, but using them won't hurt any either.

 

oh...well i just got grade 8 lol. guess i dont have to worry about any of those little bastards breaking off in the head this time around. i bought 12 for around 15 bucks. I couldn't believe napa was trying to sell them for $48!!!!!

 

just what i was worried about. i marked the rotar in relation to the distributor. and i marked the base of the distributor in relation to the manifold. AAAAAAnd the distributor isn't going in. there is about a half inch gap from where it needs to be. HELP!

 

No biggie! The bottom pin on the distributor isn't lining up with the notch on the oil pump shaft. Because of the taper of the gears, you need to drop the distributor with the rotor turned a little bit counter-clockwise from where it wants to end up with the marks you made.

YouTube - ‪How to Install Distributor Video-Engine Building Repair DVD‬‏