well you can add fast burn heads to 350's but im not sure about if i got a 383..how much would they cost me in the high end? well iam using it for everyday use so maybe i shouldnt get the 4.11 gears yet...ok so i should get 3.73 for a rear end instead right?

 

A 3.73 is a good rear end that's what I would do. Get about a 2000 stall converter, that's good for some extra kick in the launch but wont kill you in the city driving. Do you do a lot of highway driving? Or mainly city?
Yes, you can get fast-burn heads for a 383. I'm building a 383 now with the same eagle kit, I'll be making about 450 horses, mine is being made more for mid-range and high end. The Eagle kit is goof for 6500+ rpm and I'm trying to take as much advantage over it as possible. Anywho, I'm using World Sportsman 2 heads, 72cc chambers, 9.6 compression, fast-burn heads. The only problem with these heads is they would probably be a bit big on runner size for your application. You can look at Vortec heads, but you will have to get an intake that will fit the bolt pattern and they only come in 64cc chambers, which would mean getting the lower compression kit and still ending up with 9.9 compression. I'm sure you can find some good 72cc or 76cc fast burnheads for your application, I wouldn't go over 180cc for your motor or you'll start losing torque. I'll let you know if I can find some good ones for ya, I know you can find some somewhere.

 

ok well i do alot of highway driving and some city of course too..oh nice! are u gonna race yours, is that why your going more for mid to high range? what exactly is runner size? whats the compression range that still uses regular unleaded gas?

 

Not wanting to start a debate Bobarian, but I would disagree on the choice of chamber size.
A 383 engine is very forgiving on compression and cam choice. I am running World 64cc heads and 10.6:1 Speed Pro flat-tops along with a Crane cam (http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane/270/WG1064K/10002/-1).
The result is a very streetable engine with a slight lope at idle and excellent throttle response. The engine definately runs better with a 25% dose of 110 octane in the tank, I have found I can tune for pump gas too. I also decided on a 600 Holley carb but I think I may need to change to a 700. My major mistake was getting a stall converter rated for 2800, although the launch is a lot of fun a 2400 would be more street friendly.

 

what do you mean JR by a slight lope at idle? how do you know if you have to change to a bigger carb JR?

 

No debate on this end! I was looking for something that would run on lower octane gasoline. If you're willing to run on premium it opens up a new ball-game. 9.9 CR with the 64cc chamber would be good for a stronger kick. If I'm not mistaken, I believe you can go safely to 10:1 compression on iron heads, I'm going a bit lower just to be sure because the gas available in my area is crap.The heads I'm getting come in 64cc chambers as well, World Sportsman 2.You can go a bit bigger on the cam too if you'd like something that's a bit more wild for you, a 383 takes bigger cams better than the 350. If you want more power, check out some bigger cams. My impression was for a motor that will get fair economy and an excellent driver, my appologies if that's not 100% what you're looking for. For abit of a biogger cam check out a holley 650 cfm carburetor.
My motor build will be a 3-day-a-week driving motor with an over-drive tranny for a little bit of economy and I'll still be makingclose to 450horses. I'll race on a 1/4 a lot with my motor, but I'm building it for street mainly, hence the over-drive. If you drive on the highway a lot then you wont die as much on fuel costs with stop-and-go driving in the city. If you can find any way to make room for on, check out a 700r4 overdrive tranny, you'll love it!

 

well i'd prefer to run on regular unleaded but i could run on premium if i had too...but i will be using my car as a daily driver with driving on freeway and in the city..so i want a nice zippy car with a nice cam and heads but not to wild as i want to maintain as little mpg as i can lol..what do you mean if i can find room for one, do you mean if i can find physical room for it or wallet room? lol..

 

+1 on the cam Bobarian, I think I could have been much wilder on the cam profile and still be be quite well mannered for the street. I am not sure how a 383 would act on iron heads at 10:1 cr. Given the properties (benefits) of aluminum heads I think it is better to be safe rather than take a chance on iron.

Jason: When I say slight lope, I mean that at idle the engine is pretty smooth. I have idle set at 1000 rpm and it is not a car shaker. Not as smooth as stock but not sounding like a three cylinder either. The reason I question my carb is that she seems a little flat at upper rpm range. I do not have many miles on it yet, so testing continues.

I agree with Bobarian on the 700R4. 3.73 gears and an overdrive tranny are a great combination. You get fantastic performance and good economy.

 

I'll still have to stick with a nice mild cam with the 9.4 compression if you want to run on regular unleaded and keep some mpgs. You can be making 400 horses easily with a 383 and good heads, while still being a good driver with half-decent economy. You can make between 400-420 with this cam, one step up from what I advised before: http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/CL12-210-2/10002/-1 I AM still trying to recommend some good things for a driver while maintaining some economy, and this cam in a 383 will give you lots of kick and not suck down gas. The extra torque will make you VERY happy.
Haha, I mean wallet room for the 700R4, even after you do your build if you could save up and get one for it. It uses the same crossmember as the TH350, just moved back 3", altho it's longer unless you have the 9" tailshaft on your current transmission. It does put a bit of a dent in your wallet, but if you can save the money even after you finish your motor to get on in there you'll be more than happy you did!

 

remind me bob, why you said to get iron instead of alum? because i thought that alum was more expensive because there lighter and perform better? do they not hold up as good? ok yeah Bob thats what i want to have some economy but still power. i like that cam man i cant wait to get my new engine

haha ohh thats what i thought you meant..yeah i was thinking of getting one now that you introduced me to it ...should I get the trans before the engine or after?

JR, ohh i see..how do you set your idle at different RPM? how many miles do you have on it? what kind of driving do you do with it? race or daily driver?