I'd second that for a stroker kit. Remember you'll have the machine the block to clear the extra stroke too, and a 2-bolt wouldn't be the best to start with. Start off with a 4-bolt and go from there. I would call a few good machine shops and get a good idea of how much machining costs will be and then get a list together of the parts you want to use and get a generally cost tally of machining and parts, and labor cost if you plan on paying someone to assemble it for you.

 

Two things are the key to saving money here. Your mechanical ability and your shopping ability.

First, if you build an externally balanced 383 you cannot use the flexplate or harmonic balancer from your 350. If you shop around, the external balanced kit will be less than an internal balance kit. I found a kit for mine (Eagle crank, Speedpro pistons @ 10.6:1, rods, flexplate & balancer) that cost me $810. Camshaft kit cost was $125 (Crane). One note, a cam that would be quite agressive on a 350 is tolerated well on a stroked engine. The result is better quality idle. I managed to procure alum. heads from one of our suppliers at work for cheap, (195cc, 2.02/1.94) $900. Add to that ARP fasteners, roller rockers, +100 push rods and gaskets for $285. I also added a stall converter for $120. That brings total to $2240 for basic engine.

For machining I called in few favors to get the block prepped. That left me with clearancing the crankshaft, which you can do with simple tools, a stroker crankshaft needs more room to rotate especially with ARP rod bolts.

The issue of a two bolt main block is not that bad. I have built a couple of strokers for my son to put in his circle track car, both are two bolt main. Only one of them had any problems with the bottom end, a spun rod bearing. Two bolt blocks will hold up to more than many people think they will. But you do have the option of updating the block you have to billet caps or to four bolt (splayed) caps.

 

well i dont know if i should re use the parts from my rebuilt engine or not, i dont know how good of quality they are to put in a 383...what do they mean by short block vs. long block? why's the block different sizes? hmm well could I tune my 350 to get 350HP and atleast 350+ TQ? im just thinking of how to get a mean engine thats somewhat cost efficient. yeah im not very mechanically endowed lol so i'd have a shop do it for me..

Is there a big difference between a tuned 350 vs a stock or lightly tuned 383?

 

A short block means just the block and rotating assembly, no heads etc. Long block includes heads, cam, andintake manifold (some don't include the intake). Yes, you can tune a 350 to get 350+ hp and torque. The main difference is that the 383 will have better street manners as they say, meaning it will idle better and have better low end than the 350, because of the increase in displacement. A 350 horse 383 should bea more tamedriver than a 350 horse 350.
If you do a 350, you could probably machine the crank etc. and just get bigger pistons and save some money. On the other hand, it would be cheaper still than a 383 even if you bought the complete bottom end.
What's your budget for the build? It will be easier to make recommendations if we have a price range to work with.

 

The major difference between the power of a 350 and a 383 is the torque. A 383 produces more total torque and makes it lower in the rpm range than a 350. This makes it an excellent choice for cars like the Camaro. If you can find a way to put one in your car you will love it!

 

oh ok gotcha well bob, my budget would probably be 2000 and under :/ but if they do a payment plan then 3000-3500 lol oh well i want a 383 but i guess if i cant get one then i can maybe tune my 350 to 350+ HP but i'd prefer to have the better torque and idling of the 383

JR, yeah i'd love to get one and hope i can

 

ouch, $2000 is a tough budget... I've been getting the parts as I get the money for them. So far the only thing I'm missing is the heads. I don't get the motor right away but at least I get it eventually. You would be able to cut some costif you use the heads you've got, providing they are half decent but it'd be a stretch I think. Not impossible though. The old way of doing it was to get the crank from a 400 small block and use that. If you could find a good 400 crank then you could go that route. Also, check out all the classified ads you can find, and Ebay. I've saved a bundle from those sources. $690 for the Eagle rotating assembly, $135 for a good intake manifold, $225 for a 750 cfm Holley carburetor that is new. There are deals all over the place, if you look hard I bet you can at least come close to your budget. I'm not worried too much about spending money on my build, as I'm just saving the $$ and buying the parts as I can, but I've still saved a good $400 on my build!

 

yeah i know its not much but i could save up like 3000 atleast or if the maching shop offers payment plan i could go that route too..maybe i should get some lists about what i should get in some situations...

When i have my 383 built for me, what parts should I get in it?

or if i get a stroker kit, what parts should I get then?

or if i kept my 350, what parts should I get to get 350 HP and TQ?

 

 

Dang right, "fast enough isn't fast enough." You'll always want more!
Yeah, go 383 it's more than worth it. Start tallying a cost together to get a general idea of how much it'll be, and start-a-savin!