we know what we are doing, the first thing that happened was the carb wasnt tuned right, causing it to flood out we adjusted it this morning.

The next thing was when we did the carb and took the tranny vaccuum booster off, it fell off at the tranny so we had to pop the dumb hose back into place. Its shifting fine now.

As far as the oil leak, ill get new gaskets today to fix that problem. Im not an idiot nor is he, just a lot new things im not used to and he only has limited time to help explain things to me. I had a nice 4 mile walk home last night from where the car stalled out on me due to over flooding itself.

 

Hope you didn't interpret what I said as meaning you're an idiot. I sure didn't mention anything like that. I just wanted you to be sure that you're not doing something to damage a very nice car's engine or trans. Water under the valve covers is serious, and not something I'd want to just drive and see if it goes away later. It's imperative to always change the oil anytime you have the intake off, (prior to starting the engine) just because lots of things can drop into the engine. I usually change the oil afterwards, and again about 500 miles later, after pulling an engine apart for intake, heads, cam, or anything that can allow debris to enter the engine.
I agree with what Damon said about taking time and getting to know a car before making changes. Even when I'm familiar with a type of car or engine, I still only change one thing at a time, so I don't wonder which of the multiple changes caused my last issue.
When I'm building cars I try to get some miles on them before making changes, so I can see if it needs repairs first. I like to make sure they're running tops and funnel my funds towards that, then once it's running good I begin to make upgrades to performance.

 

your cool man, so is the other guy. My friend told me that its just the excess antifreeze that dropped in there is all. I changed the oil once already, looks like ill have to change it again though soon prolly less then 500 miles even just to get the rest of the antfreeze out its running real nice right now. The only thing i question right now is you know when you start the car ull hear a buzzing sound like the vaccuum turning on to pump fuel in, seems like in park its always on but i dont remember hearing that before today its like it never turns off, not a big deal just wondering.

the cars going into the body shop this weekend i believe as long as i get my parts for it. New rear window seal, new trunk pan, new bottom 3 inches of quarter, and thats it. once i have a new dash, and front seats this car is done pretty much for time being. As im running down into where i dont want to spend anymore till at least taxes, any idea what im talking about though in the above?

 

I'm not sure what that buzzing sound could be. I've never owned a car that made a "buzzing" sound when started. Do you perhaps mean the sound like an electric fuel pump makes when the key is turned on???
The front seat covers are around $250, and if you can install them with hog ring pliers you'll save install costs, which will be that much more. Rear window R&R to seal was $100 for mine.
I can't guess on the trunk pan and quarter panel repairs. It can run all over the place.

 

it was something dumb and loose nothing to worry about.

the shop which im friends with for some years now said they would do the trunk pan, bottom quarter piece, rear window, front bottom fender all between $1200 $1500 range which includes any paint, popping out any dents, etc. After which ill only need front seats which im thinking of getting velore or w/e you spell it, and then my dash pad. otherwise this car is complete

 

I wasn't implying you were an idiot. Just reading your posts I had flash backs of stuff I've done. Like I said I wasn't busting your *****. I particularly remember doing V/C gaskets when I was about 15, playing with the push rods I thought they were too loose and proceeded to tighten them all down. Or my first plug wire fiasco. I still to this day swear I did them one at a time.

 

nah you guys are fine dont worry about it. I just got my stuff in the mail for the body work, should be dropping it off here in a few days. looking forward to it. Just hoping me and my brother are able to buy our house right now long story dont want to get into it but after our parents passed blah blah just keep your fingers crossed for me please.

 

Well not sure about the house yet, one thing I guess ill have to do is get a timing light, the one my dad had is not working correctly. That way we can find top dead center etc. Thing is with a performance intake, carb, water pump should the timing still be set at 10 to 12 degrees from top dead center? Under a heavy load my cars still doing a few nice lil pops here and there nothing terrible but still not good. Just wondering what you guys have to say. at idle its fine, i also need to figure out where i want the car to idle at, i was thinking about 1000rpm

 

More like 750-850 rpm. Watch this video its one of the best explanations I have seen. http://www.setyourtiming.com/video.html

 

I'd try advancing it to maybe 12-14 degrees and see if it runs better. Then if it does and still starts OK hot, and doesn't ping, you're fine.