stop by shops instead of calling, it is well worth it. I went to a shop with nothing but a set of mufflers and they charged me 375 for 2.75 inch stainless pipes custom bent and that came with a set of chrome tips. A lot of the exhaust shops around me charge less if you use their materials and it will end up being cheaper for them to just bend them instead of buying a kit and paying shipping etc. At least that's my experience when i was trying to figure out my exhaust situation. Also, if you don't have to go through emissions then do not get cats, it's pointless but if you do need to. i had a set of magnaflow high flow cats on my trans am that were super open and they allowed me to pass emissions also.

 

Another issue im having at the moment is i was supposed to have my friend come and put my cables onto the new carb so i could drive it out of the garage finally and drop it off to my friends body shop but he never showed up. Which means my plans this week are going to be put on hold, im really new to carbs and they dont show you a damn thing in the owners book. I have the 1st of 2 cables hooked up already but still needs to be tuned. I have no clue where this other one goes though

 

It hooks to that large hole in the carb, but you need the GM fitting to make it fit the large hole, and also the cable end.
I have a question though. That bracket appears to possibly be in the wrong location. I doubt you can get full throttle in that position, as the trans. kickdown will stop the travel before it reaches full. Those brackets usually hook to the rear carb base bolt, or farther forward to allow full travel.

 

Well i did a bit of research i ended up connecting it to the slightly smaller hole with a screw on one end and a nut on the other side. I have to figure out where to put the springs though. If it doesnt work ill get that GM piece. Thing is, it says its not even required, that you might have to mod the existing one a bit. To tell you the truth this whole bracket epidemic is really pissing me off. They need to just send the **** with it i literally have bought 3 brackets for this car and its beginning to tick me off to find out i need another one now probably.

 

Not only that but what fitting are you talking about? the only other thing i could possibly get is the GM # 352279 bracket which I know i dont need. Let me know please incase i do need to get it. ok thanks



Edit, we got the car running and driving but the aftermarket valves were leaking oil really bad. I took the one off and to my pleasant surprize what do i see, yellowish murky river water sludge. I dont know how or why but i think my head gaskets blew out. Perhaps its the antifreeze that leaked into the intake when we did the intake gasket but i can only think my head gaskets blew out. Im dropping the oil, no white **** in the oil pan or dip stick, or radiator but im having my doubts right now. I guess ill get it bolted back on and drive it around for a few hours and see if it the **** still turns white. I dont have any noticable power losses right now though. Ill let you guys know

 

The piece I'm referring to is a fitting that fills the large hole and has a connection to fit the linkage. It's a few dollars at most parts stores, or look at a wrecking yard to see what they are and grab one off a car. But if you've got that hooked up some other way, then don't worry.

Not sure what "aftermarket valves" you're talking about? Could you possibly mean aftermarket valve covers?????Can't think of any valve that would let water or antifreeze into the engine. Don't drive it thinking it will clear up! You'll only damage the engine if you drive it with antifreeze in the oil.
It sounds like you may have gotten a bad seal on the intake gasket, or misaligned the gaskets when installing the intake, and you're leaking into the engine. Drain the water and oil, then pull the intake and check for leaks on the gaskets.

 

well i pulled the other valve cover off too, after market moroso or w/e they call them. Same thing, goop. But the good news is, there was no oil on the dip stick, in the radiator, coolant resovoir, or oil pan when i dropped the oil. I did an oil change and took it for a ride. I cant tell if its still leaking oil yet due to so much damn oil leakin in the first place.

Ill check the valve covers again here in a few hours after i let it sit to see if more goop collected or if it was just the antifreeze we dropped in there by accident while doing the intake the first time. I dont smell antifreeze coming out of the exhaust or in the oil dip stick either, heck i even tasted it as gross as that might sound.

The other issue im having is we put the spring on the transmisson vacuum cable and it seemed fine till we both realized that the car only wants to shift now when you gun it to the floor, otherwise it just bogs down. What is that fitting your talking about so I can buy it? I think ill pick one up tomarrow.

 

Did hook up the PCV on the new carb and valve covers? Did you use a timing light after the intake swap. Did anyone tune the carb or just slap it on and go? Tighten the V/C bolts too tight, they'll leak. Too loose, they'll leak.

 

If you remove the valve covers once they're tightened they need to get new gaskets every time. Don't take them off to check and reinstall them with the same gaskets. They just wont seal. I also use black RTV to seal mine to the valve cover, then once it has set I put them on the engine, but no RTV on the head side.
You didn't listen when I told you that bracket is in the wrong position and the cable to your trans would be too short, restricting travel. If your trans is shifting too late at high rpm's it's because that cable is out of adjustment. You're supposed to be able to fully open the throttle on the carb and then the trans cable should be adjusted so it's still not quite tight aat full throttle. If it gets tight too soon it wont shift right.
I hope you don't ruin a nice Camaro's engine and trans by not knowing what you're doing.

 

The proper "touch" when dealing with valve covers, oil pans, and tranny pans is something of an art. Too tight and the pan will dent and deform the gasket then push it out. I personally will never used stamped valve covers because of this.

I agree with Val. You may be over your head. I don't want and am NOT dawging, ragging, dissing, or what ever you call it. I certainly don't want to discourage you. Keeping the second gens alive and rolling is what I do. Seems like you buddy is influencing your decisions and neither one of you have the skill.

It is a right of passage I guess, I broke,damaged, and destroyed more high end engine components then I care to count. I did it on cars that weren't as nice as yours. That was the up side. I think you should have drove it for a while, learned its quirks, then started changing things after that. Hell i would have thrown some rims on it and had a good time cruising. Winter is for upgrades.