I figure rather then making new posts all the time, I might as well do what a lot of guys on here I see do, just make my own thread. Here it goes

As a few of you ive already gotten to know, I recently bought a 1975 Camaro mostly original needs some work though. Anyways, my friend installed the 1805 Edelbrock Thunder Series Carb, and the air gap intake the other day. It sounds good but we still need to get the fuel filter in, and the brake booster set up.

Last night I won $1200 at the casino so I have even more money to get more things I dont really need lol. What id like to know is what sorts of water pumps should I get? I am assuming a mechanical obviously, is a high flow one better then normal? I ask because mine is actually on its way out as I write this, i can hear the bearing getting tired out.

Also, ive also began to look at heads and a cam as well? Whats a decent lift, im only looking to get up to about 350HP maybe 375 tops. Could you guys point out some for me off of summit perhaps, theres so many on there. Are rollers better then tappits?

Lastly, headers, I do have AC and I assume its what they call a rotary AC system right? Could someone show me some chrome or polished ones that would be able to fit up with the Ac system? I know im asking a lot but if anyone knows anything ive asked please your more then free to tell me

Thanks

 

I have a Weiand hi flow aluminum on my Camaro that was $79 at Summit. But I've got a $16 (new not rebuilt) cast iron on my 327 in the gasser, and it works well also. The one in the gasser was listed as '67 Chevelle 327 at NAPA, but it's a short pump and you probably need a long. The Weiand is this one, and they're up to $98 now:
Weiand 9240 - Weiand Action Plus Mechanical Water Pumps - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Roller cams are better than flat tappet, but also a lot more money. Rollers can handle different grinds vs. flats, and don't have break in issues. I haven't gone to a roller in any of my vehicles yet, but have looked at them, and the roller lifters will run you more than a cam/lifters in hydraulic flat tappet.
For flat tappets I'd stay under .500" total lift. durations over 280 with much lobe separation will end up being high rpm cams, and most over .500 lift will require special springs and maybe even different heads. Before ordering, or reccommending a cam I'd want to know what heads you're going to use, or presently have. Add a new intake, cam, and headers, and poor heads will be the restriction in the system, so need to be sure they match up well.
If they're small heads you can still get 300-325 HP from the rest, but good heads will build even more.
Summit's ceramic coated headers show they are for cars with or without AC:
Summit Racing SUM-G9001-9 - Summit Racing® Headers - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Lots of good choices in headers, so just check the application link on each, or punch in specifics when you do a search at Summit to see what all fits your '75 Camaro.

 

for always replying back man lol.

Yeah first off, as you remember perhaps this car is bone stock well not anymore it was when i got it 3 weeks ago though. Now it has that air gap intake from edelbrock polished which is pretty bad *** I have to say. I have that 1805 edelbrock 4 barrell 650cfm on there as well. Thing is, if you touch the accelerator to the point where the auxileries open it will back fire almost instantly probably due to the fact my car is bone stock. I didnt order the stupid throttle bracket though so my car is still in my garage. I did put the brake booster hose on and I have to run a fuel filter in the line somewhere.

I looked under the car and whats funny is its a single exhaust all the way to the end where it cuts off to the flowmaster muffler and comes out 2 chambered to a double exhaust pipe. So yeah I know im going to have to get the headers soon. Should I go with shorty or the long ones? I personally dont get the difference other then one is longer then the other.

As far as heads yeah those are stock, so is all the stuff in the heads, and the internals are obviously. Basically id like to get as much as I can without having to rip the crank, pistons out that sorta stuff. For now im assuming your getting at I should those headers first though correct? My friend has stepped in while I talked and said I need back pressure though and my stock exhuast is giving me that right now. I dont want to wire off my auxileries though, that kinda ruins the whole point of having a nice carb though.


I do think im going to go with this water pump though to start with.
Weiand 9240P - Weiand Action Plus Mechanical Water Pumps - Suggested Parts - SummitRacing.com

I think the stock radiator would be ok though, as well as the alternator for the time being.

One thing i do have to get done before the winter is that trunk pan, and bottom quarter, i mean who wants a rusty trunk ya know. I did take the bottom chrome under the doors off theres a tiny bit of rust on the bottom of the fenders, again easy work though. My shop said they would do the whole car, dents etc for around $1200 so im probably going to do that soon as well.

 

Backfires through the carb can be from timing, and you probably need to adjust timing after changing the intake and carb. Even if it got back where it was before, it might not be right for the new carb and intake. I'd advance the timing until the backfires stop, then check it by shutting it off and ensuring it restarts easily. "Wiring off the auxilaries" wont be a good cure. The secondaries will work fine once you get the rest set up, and get the timing working. I've changed a number of two barrel 350's to 4 barrel and not had issues with secondaries working well. You did get a vacuum secondary carb, didn't you?
Your friend is correct about needing some back pressure, especially with stock low performance heads, but your 2 into1 into 2 exhaust is too restrictive, even for small heads. A dual exhaust with headers will work better, but be sure to use crossflow mufflers and not too large a primary tube. That will give free flow, but still enough backpressure to work well. I would reccomend a 2.25" dual, as a 2.5" is larger than you need for a pretty stock engine. I'd also go full length headers personally, as they will perform better than shorties. Get the 1 5/8 primary tubes like the ones I linked and they will work better than larger primaries.
With stock 2 brl. heads you should look at cams with lifts under 480, and short duration/high lift work better for stock heads and streetable power. This would be a good cam:
Summit Racing SUM-K1103 - Summit Racing® Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

And this would be about max for an engine and heads like you have:
Summit Racing SUM-K1301 - Summit Racing® Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Edit: Probably wont get to 350-375 HP even with all these changes until you rework those heads with larger valves, or change the heads.

 

Yeah again thanks for the reply, im going to research those, looks like for now i might just get the headers and get the exhaust redone. Its already loud as all hell sounds awesome even if its only a fake duel lol.

Heres the carb.
Edelbrock 1805 Edelbrock Thunder Series AVS Carburetors
Yeah its vac. secondary I believe as it states.

As for the heads, I might go with what you listed, but I think ill probably just wait till my friend doesnt mind ripping the motor out and wants do my heads and cam. Thats a huge off limits zone for me lol i dont know much about internals.I break enough things on the tops of motors lol. Again on a 0-5 scale im about a 2.46 lol

 

Well, my friend and I got the new Wienand water pump on today, as well as new carb, intake etc. The only issue i have now is the stupid throttle bracket I got didnt fit, sent it back got the other one and that didnt fit. So now i have to get the edel 8036 bracket.

My next question is I have my hedman headers, longs as i was told to most likely get. I just called Tuffy asi know they do some of the best work around. I was told being my car a 1975 I would have to get Cats put on due to it being the first year they needed them. I was told I could get high flow ones which basically do nothing. Thing is we are looking at an extra $200 to get them. The guy said he could ask his shop manager if he could let this one slide but hes not sure yet.

I was quoted $550 for header, 2.25 duel exhaust, without mufflers and roughly $700 for muffler install too. Then another $200 if I needed to get the cats on as well. Is this realistic? I never knew it was $1000 to get a nice exhaust installed. Let me know ?

 

Well I'm sure most legitimate shops will require they install cats, as it's the "law". Some small shops will look the other way, but they're taking their chances. Most people do their own, and do whatever they want with a kit system.
If you don't have the ability to bolt together a kit, then you're at the mercy of whoever does it for you. As for the cost, it seems that $1,000 is rediculously high, and I'd check with some others before proceeding. Cats at $100 ea. is fair, but another $800 for the rest installed is rediculous. If they're that high I'd order a $200 kit and then have the hi flow cats added to the kit. Maybe see what they'd charge to install a kit you bought, or go elsewhere and see what the others charge.
This is the kit I used:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-680101/

They also sell it as a 2.25" kit for $189:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-680100/

 

Thats what I figured, ill probably give muffler man a call too and see what they say i do have friends that could weld this all in as well too though. So I might even go that route. Heres the headers I bought Hedman Hedders 68276 - Hedman Street Hedders - Overview - SummitRacing.com they are pretty nice.

Ill get that dumb bracket on today as well. My car still makes this wierd clunking sounds while at idle, we thought it was the water pump bearing so we replaced it with Weiand 9240P - Weiand Action Plus Mechanical Water Pumps - Overview - SummitRacing.com but it take the noise away. Today ill probably take the AC belt off and see if that takes it away, it not then its the alternator.

 

Clunking sound. I doubt it's anything to do with the alternator. They usually screech or squeal when they're going out. For something to make a "clunking" sound, it would have to have some mass.
By the way, the Summit kit comes with clamps and doesn't have to be welded. I clamped mine all together, then just tack welded the joints to secure them. You can clamp it all together and get it aligned, then just take it to a friend and have them tack the joints.

 

Stop calling name brand exhaust shops. They will all give you the same answer. They don't know if your some guy with a 75 Camaro or a federal agent trying to set them up.

Second. go to a shop with a good reputation. We have on locally call Exhaust Special Ts. I know you got your car from Grant, Jason's shop is roughly 20min farther down M-46 from Grant. I wanna say I paid 380 out the door for duel Flowmasters on my 85 short box. I installed the headers myself though.

Val has a good point, the Summit kit he has is hard to beat. Even if you buy Flomasters ect. to install with that kit.