I recently inherited this 1974 Chevrolet Camaro LT, and I'm looking to sell it at this point. I've done some searching online to help inform myself, and I found this forum which I thought might be useful. Does anyone have specific information they think would be useful to know for this model? Is there a way to tell if the engine installed is the original (I can't seem to find a VIN number on the engine itself)? What might you value this vehicle?

 

I would add that the mileage is 51k. The battery was just replaced, the brake lines were flushed, and the master cylinder was replaced. It will need replacement tires and likely need to have its heating core replaced (engine temperature spikes and fluid drains into the passenger side floor).

 

Well much depends on how original and if you can document it including the mileage being only 51K and not rolled over actually being 151K.
I'd get that heater core and tires done and whatever else it needs to be roadworthy otherwise it's a project car in most buyers eyes and much lower in value.
In front of the passenger side cylinder head on the top of the engine block's deck there's a pad with letters and numbers on it if the deck has not been resurfaced.
That pad will have the code to tell what the engine is and what car it was original to.
https://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engin...-stampings.php

 

Thanks for the feedback.
My issue is I don't have the time or energy for it to be a project car of my own, so if I sacrifice in terms of sell price, that's ok.
I feel like I've looked everywhere possible on the engine block for some sort of numbers or identifier without much luck. I don't see the engine pad as you described or in the link you provided. The only identification I see is what I provided in that last picture "A 8288707 GM 88" (I think it reads). Any other possibilities you can think of?

 

It would be right behind your alternator just in front of the cylinder head where it mates to the engine block on the same surface as the head gasket but in front of the head.
It may be that it needs to be cleaned off to see it,if you find that little pad spray some carb cleaner on it and clean it off until you can see the stamping.
If it's just bare metal with no numbers the block to head surface has been resurfaced at some point,that would be unlikely if the car actually gas only 51K miles on it.

 

It's likely obscured by your alternator.
This is what you need to find to ID what the motor is for sure and to tell if it's original to the car which is important for the value if it indeed is the original engine.

 

You would be sacrificing a lot,if you can find a mechanic to do a little work to get it running it would really raise the value a lot.
The tires appear to be holding air,I'd let the new owner worry about new ones,they may want to change the wheels and all.
The important thing is being able to start the car and drive it around the block.
That will literally double the value of this car and these late second gen cars are fast appreciating in value with 1st gens through the roof and early 2nd gens getting there as well. Running it could be an easy $10K and maybe more cleaned up nicely.

 

Thanks for your help.
I think I found the appropriate information. It was smaller than I thought it would be and indeed obscured by the alternator and a dust film. After some scrubbing, I was able to uncover the following: V0418TYZ / C7J159023. Using some decoder info online, I translated this to:

• Flint factory, April 18, 1975 350 conv.cab L LS9 165hp 4 barrel carb C-10 to 2500
• Chevy Truck 1987, 305 cubic inch 165 hp 4 barrel carb auto transmission camaro

The two numbers seem to contradict themselves on year and displacement, any thoughts on that? Either way, it doesn't seem as though this is the original motor (159023 doesn't match the vehicle VIN either).

Currently, the vehicle can be driven around the block and over short distances, but because the heating core seems to leak coolant, it can't run for very long without the engine temperature increasing above safe levels.

I also don't live where the vehicle currently is, so trying to move it rather quickly.

 

Well you could disconnect the supply line hose to the heater core and take off the return line then hook the supply line hose back to where the return line connects bypassing the heater core completely and making it possible to drive the car without losing any coolant and overheating.

 

I agree with this 100%. I have helped a lot of people buy cars and I always say if you cannot drive it assume the Engine, transmission, rear and front suspension has issues.. Even if the engine idles fine how do you know what it's going to do on a 20 minute drive? A 10K car becomes a 4K car real quick if it may needs a whole new drive line. I am sure you are not trying to get over on someone but I have seen cars that a buyer was told it just needs a clutch, install the clutch and 3rd gears grinds and the motor throws steams out the tail pipe 10 minutes into its first drive.

You also want to find some local information on how much the 74s sell for in your area. In my area a 74 none Z28 is not a big dollar car but maybe it is in your area. The 74 is a bit of an odd ball. The 70-73 are the pricey second gens 74 is the first year for the big bumpers but it is the only other year with the small back window. The Z28's do well, I have seen them 30K. I have seen the 74's in decent shape anywhere from 6-15K Of course that is asking prices so you never know that they sell for. With all cars that do not bring big numbers spending $2500 for shipping is a lot less common than say a 50k car. This makes the cars very subject to local supply and demand.

Looks like it had a repaint? I say that because the paint looks better then factory, like it did not spend a day in the sun and the interior is show classic sighs of sun damage. That the car looks nice and the numbers matching should not matter too much as most collectors will bypass a repainted car. Even when the paint looks better then factory. Heck if it was not on the other side of the country I would be tempted to build a Z28 clone out of it.