I'm looking into replacing the heads on my 350 SBC. After a lot of intense searching, this engine was pulled out of a truck. I would like to give it more performance without pulling the motor out of the vehicle. I'm looking into the Edelbrock E-210 heads because i can use my hooker headers which require, straight plugs and exhaust ports in the stock location. I have some questions, any guidance/advice/do's/don'ts are GREATLY appreciated:

1) I'm not sure what the cam in the car is, all i know is that it is a mild cam, i would prefer to not have to replace it, but I don't know if i have hydraulic roller cam, hydraulic flat tappet cam, or mechanical flat tappet cam... Is there anyway to identify what it is without pulling the heads off?
(I'm trying to avoid having to pull the heads off before i order new heads, but if i have to, then i have to)

2) Is there any kind of "break in" for new heads, do i need to manually turn the engine etc?

i've done a lot of research, i have purchased nothing yet, 4 months ago i was a complete car newbie and i'm hooked like a heroin addict!

 

Best advice I can give you find an old guy that has done motor work and ask him to come drink some beers with you while you do the work.. There is a lot of little things that are tedious and if done wrong the motor just grenades itself.. If your going to tear the motor down far enough you might as well go all the way..

 

Stock low compression bottom end and a mild cam. This is something you DO NOT want to put a set of 220 cfm runner heads on. Those heads will only work good on a 400+inch motor with compression and a lot of cam. Then you will also need gearing and a high stall converter. Best bang for the buck is a set of Vortec heads with the casting number of 906 or 062 these are the only good vortec heads for a 350. They will bring up your compression one point to a little over 9.2-1. They are straight plug heads and will work with any exhaust manifolds. As for finding out if you have a flat tappet cam or a roller just pull out a push rod and check the length. Hyd roller push rods are 7.195 long and a flat tappet push rod is 7.800. If you know what year the truck was it would help with knowing what in the motor, IF it has not been apart. Also casting on the heads will also tell more about the motor.

 

unfortunately if there is a vin on the block it's covered in paint. block casting code is 3970010. The previous owner really couldn't tell me much about the engine except it only has 5,000 miles since the previous rebuild on the motor. Part of the reason for swapping the heads is a very tiny leak on the head gasket on one side. but obviously I want more power. From comparing the profile view pattern of the heads, it looks like I have the 76cc combustion chamber smog heads. I will double check casting numbers tomorrow.


excuse my ignorance, but why is a 210cc intake runner head with a 64cc combustion chamber a bad idea for this motor? can you give me some in depth info? after doing more reading at 2am (couldn't sleep) I've figured out that big of an intake runner takes away from the low rpm torque and makes more power at the higher rpm range? am I understanding this correctly?


and thanks for all the tips!

 

That 010 casting was used from 1969-1980 in everything. Usually came with a low compression and smog heads. All were a flat tappet block with no provisions for a hyd roller cam unless the retro kit is used $$$$$$. You are very right on the big runner heads killing the low end. The best heads for your application are the 170cc vortecs and they bolt right up with the vortec intake. As for a cam I could call some one like Comp Cams hot line and have them pick one for you vehicle and application. Glad to hear you about your addiction. Hope this helps.