383 engine build
#1
383 engine build
I was wondering how much horsepower im going to get out of an engine build like this.
383 stroker with eagle rotating assembly
comp thumpr cam 12-601-4
camel hump heads machined for high lift (screw in studs, bigger springs, smoothed intake and exhaust ports etc)
edelbrock air gap
havent decided on carb probably 750 or 850
arp bolts
and its going to have about probably 11 to1 compression 10.5 im guessing dont know exact .Anything helps ty
383 stroker with eagle rotating assembly
comp thumpr cam 12-601-4
camel hump heads machined for high lift (screw in studs, bigger springs, smoothed intake and exhaust ports etc)
edelbrock air gap
havent decided on carb probably 750 or 850
arp bolts
and its going to have about probably 11 to1 compression 10.5 im guessing dont know exact .Anything helps ty
#2
First off DUMP the old fulie heads. Old outdated and iron with no holes for the alt or power stearing. Get a set of after market heads with the right chamber size to bring the compression down to a pump gas ride. If your only racing then the very expensive race gas is your fuel to use with that much compression. Not sure on the cam specks but the RPM range of the cam will be the desiding factor on gearing, converter and how happy you will be with your cam choice.
#3
10.5:1 is pump gas friendly if you have aluminum heads. Some people have pushed the 11:1 area before with the right stuff (dynamic compression, timing, block/head material, cam specs, etc.)
Power is in the top end components. You have to make them all work together to get the most power. What are your cam specs?
Power is in the top end components. You have to make them all work together to get the most power. What are your cam specs?
#4
COMP Cams Thumpr Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts 12-601-4 - SummitRacing.com
I'm at about 10.5~10.6:1 and have no issues running premium. And yes, aluminum heads are light years ahead of the old "hi-performance" iron heads of the day. Don't know if another $1,500 is in your budget, but AFR heads (195 cc) would be good ones to lust for. And a 750 carb is plenty big.
I'm at about 10.5~10.6:1 and have no issues running premium. And yes, aluminum heads are light years ahead of the old "hi-performance" iron heads of the day. Don't know if another $1,500 is in your budget, but AFR heads (195 cc) would be good ones to lust for. And a 750 carb is plenty big.
#5
The problem comes when people try to run a 3.08 gear with a stock converter in a 3,500lb. vehical with high compression. Not sure what the big deal is with AFR heads, your paying for the name more then the performance. While back Car Craft did a head test on the basic aluminum heads from several manufactors with the $7-800. heads being only a few numbers short of the very expensive ones. They guy on the street can't tell the difference of 5hp if he tryed. Put that on a index car and it will make a small difference.
#6
Any ways, were you referring to this article?
Eight Budget Small Block Chevy Heads Tested - Car Craft Magazine
#7
And because of that, AFR heads can flow more CFM than other heads that have larger primary runners. So you get smaller runners which gives better venturi effect, which means better low end response, as well as very good CFM flow.
All that tried and tested technology is a moot point for me though, 3 more cereal box tops saved and I'm all set to get my Walmart heads!
All that tried and tested technology is a moot point for me though, 3 more cereal box tops saved and I'm all set to get my Walmart heads!
#8
Thats the artical that I made reference to. Any of the head manufacturs will do CNC porting for a extra price. Its all in how much you are willing or have the ability to spend on a set of heads. Four hours with a porting kit on the vortecs and you can get very close to the flow numbers and performance of the listed heads. If you look for a deal on the vortecs you should be able to get a set of take offs for $150-250 and $50 of machineing and $30 set of Z-28 springs and you set. It all depends on how deep you pockets are.
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