67 Camaro RS Convertible Suspension and Brakes upgrade
#1
67 Camaro RS Convertible Suspension and Brakes upgrade
Hey Guys,
I'm going to change my original suspension, shocks and the brakes (drum to disc). I've been scouring the internet to find out what would be the best suspension for the car. I used to race cars and obviously want something that will give performance but I'll be on the road not the track so, not looking for something that's so tight that every time I hit a bump it's jarring.
Does anyone know of a good street performance suspension that will fit the first gen camaro?
Also, thoughts on front disc and rear drum vs front disc and rear disc.
Thanks guys!
I'm going to change my original suspension, shocks and the brakes (drum to disc). I've been scouring the internet to find out what would be the best suspension for the car. I used to race cars and obviously want something that will give performance but I'll be on the road not the track so, not looking for something that's so tight that every time I hit a bump it's jarring.
Does anyone know of a good street performance suspension that will fit the first gen camaro?
Also, thoughts on front disc and rear drum vs front disc and rear disc.
Thanks guys!
#3
My suggestion is to look for a disc brake conversion that is a copy of the OEM system. (From what I've read, the 69 caliper system is better than the 67.) Using an OEM reproduction system will allow parts store replacement parts (pads, lug nuts, rotors) and let you keep your original 15" wheels. If you are still running 14" wheels, double check to make sure they will fit with the kit. Many aftermarket disc brake kits require larger diameter wheels. You will probably need the brake booster. Some of the OEM type kits look really good. Some of the kits have small boosters that can look out of place in the engine compartment.
As for suspension, if you are simply street driving the car, keep it to stock specs. Best thing is to replace all the soft parts with new. Use brand names like Moog and TRW parts. Don't get KYB shocks (too stiff). Read up on poly suspension parts. Some of them, like body bushings, sound like a good idea.
Read Pozzi's site, pozziracing.com. Lots of good info there. Especially the Guildstrand (sp?) mod.
As for suspension, if you are simply street driving the car, keep it to stock specs. Best thing is to replace all the soft parts with new. Use brand names like Moog and TRW parts. Don't get KYB shocks (too stiff). Read up on poly suspension parts. Some of them, like body bushings, sound like a good idea.
Read Pozzi's site, pozziracing.com. Lots of good info there. Especially the Guildstrand (sp?) mod.
#4
Make it handle like a Race Car
Global West Coil over with Upper and Lower Tube A Arms
Global West Subframe connectors
CPP 500 Series High Ratio steering box
Wilwood 14" slotted / Drilled 6 piston all corners
1 1/2 Sway bays front and Back
Mono Leaf springs
New Poly Bushings thru out
Global West Coil over with Upper and Lower Tube A Arms
Global West Subframe connectors
CPP 500 Series High Ratio steering box
Wilwood 14" slotted / Drilled 6 piston all corners
1 1/2 Sway bays front and Back
Mono Leaf springs
New Poly Bushings thru out
#5
68 Modifications
Here's what I did with my 68. It gave me the stance I wanted and provides great performance on the street and the tract. Launches clean and you can adjust the ride for street cruising. BTW running 15" wheels. No rubbing and reasonable ground clearance, but it is doubtful that i could go much lower.. Header clearance..
-Hotchkis front and rear anti-sways
-Qa1 adjustable shocks on the rear, moved inside the frame
-Viking double adjustable coil overs in the front which has given me about a 2" drop
-Tubular upper and lowers in the front
-Hotchkis subframe connecters
-4 piston Wilwood's front and rear
-Competition Engineering slide-a-links on multi-leaf rear springs
-Hotchkis front and rear anti-sways
-Qa1 adjustable shocks on the rear, moved inside the frame
-Viking double adjustable coil overs in the front which has given me about a 2" drop
-Tubular upper and lowers in the front
-Hotchkis subframe connecters
-4 piston Wilwood's front and rear
-Competition Engineering slide-a-links on multi-leaf rear springs
#6
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,354
You can do anything you want to first gen rag top and it won't handle any better then my stock 67 unless you build a complete sub frame or add a roll cage.
The problem is body is a wet noodle. Put a jack under one control arm and jack the car up, now look how high that wheel goes up before the next wheel is off the ground. Stock if you turn the car hard enough it will go around a corner on 3 wheels. A stiffer suspension will cause the wheel to come off the ground faster. Most important thing on a sports car you want to handle is body rigidity. If you have that everything else can be fixed.
Marketing at GM wanted to sell a Z28 rag top, engineering said no, normally management backs up marketing but in this case the GM engineers said flat out with the stiffer suspension you could put a permanent twist in the cars on a hard turn. Good luck fixing that under warranty.
The problem is body is a wet noodle. Put a jack under one control arm and jack the car up, now look how high that wheel goes up before the next wheel is off the ground. Stock if you turn the car hard enough it will go around a corner on 3 wheels. A stiffer suspension will cause the wheel to come off the ground faster. Most important thing on a sports car you want to handle is body rigidity. If you have that everything else can be fixed.
Marketing at GM wanted to sell a Z28 rag top, engineering said no, normally management backs up marketing but in this case the GM engineers said flat out with the stiffer suspension you could put a permanent twist in the cars on a hard turn. Good luck fixing that under warranty.
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