German Camaro Restoration
Thread Starter
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In the Staging Lanes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 90
From: Indiana
Psy4s,
How’s the project coming? It’s been a while since the last update in this thread.
You’re doing a great job saving that Camaro from its past life. Thanks for considering us when you were purchasing suspension pieces. We noticed that you are re-installing the original mono-leaf rear springs. If you’re planning on doing any performance driving, you should upgrade to multi-leaf rear springs. Those mono-leaf springs do not offer rear suspension control and often induce wheel-hop. The ’67 Camaro is the worst offender because both shock absorbers mount in front of the rear axle. For the 1968 model year, Chevy changed the design to a staggered design (one shock in front and one shock behind the rear axle).
Installing a set of multi-leaf rear springs will greatly reduce wheel-hop and also give you a much better handling suspension. Since you’re already lowering the front with Hotchkis 2” lowering springs, take a look at our 1.5” rear leaf springs.
Link:
http://www.hotchkis.net/6769_camarofirebird_sport_leaf_springs.html
We look forward to more updates!
How’s the project coming? It’s been a while since the last update in this thread.
You’re doing a great job saving that Camaro from its past life. Thanks for considering us when you were purchasing suspension pieces. We noticed that you are re-installing the original mono-leaf rear springs. If you’re planning on doing any performance driving, you should upgrade to multi-leaf rear springs. Those mono-leaf springs do not offer rear suspension control and often induce wheel-hop. The ’67 Camaro is the worst offender because both shock absorbers mount in front of the rear axle. For the 1968 model year, Chevy changed the design to a staggered design (one shock in front and one shock behind the rear axle).
Installing a set of multi-leaf rear springs will greatly reduce wheel-hop and also give you a much better handling suspension. Since you’re already lowering the front with Hotchkis 2” lowering springs, take a look at our 1.5” rear leaf springs.
Link:
http://www.hotchkis.net/6769_camarofirebird_sport_leaf_springs.html
We look forward to more updates!
I am going to install the Hotchkis rear springs and shocks. Once I start this spring, I haveto completely tear down the rear end to replace the bearings and seals. When it goes back in it will go back in with the new Hotchkis parts. Thanks again for looking through my thread.
Thread Starter
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In the Staging Lanes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 90
From: Indiana
Home from the Painters. A walk around of the car this weekend.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mO3BQh2ReUA&feature=youtube_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mO3BQh2ReUA&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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January 2010 ROTM Winner
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,306
From: The 'Burbs of Chicago
Looking good, bet you're glad to have it at this stage. "Some assembly required" now.
What's with the duplicate posts (was), and the duplicate videos within the post?
What's with the duplicate posts (was), and the duplicate videos within the post?
Thread Starter
|
In the Staging Lanes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 90
From: Indiana
Thread Starter
|
In the Staging Lanes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 90
From: Indiana
Rain out
Well I was going to spray the inside with Lizard Skin Sound deadener and Thermal Control but it POURED RAIN, so I could not move it outside. I hope to get this done next weekend, so the interior can start going in. Good jobs take time, and Mother Nature has her own schedule.
Thread Starter
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In the Staging Lanes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 90
From: Indiana
I love the German Girls, but this was the only one I brought home. I have started the inside by first I bought some .080 Aluminum sheet and cut pannels to repair where the Port People cut the speakers out of the back of the car. These I Epoxied them inside from under the deck, and secured them with Rivits till the epoxy set up. Now it is stronger than new. I even have a solis surface to mount my speakers to.
My next step is to cut the holes and place sound deadener under the deck. I am also going to cut a second sheet of Aluminum sheet to go in the area behind the seat back. This will close the front of the car off from the trunk area.
Second Skin has a new Dampening product, Alpha Damp. This is what I plan to put in the floor, under the Luxeryliner Pro. The car should be reasonably quiet, even with the Headers and Pypes Exhaust.
contestant@alphadamp.com
My next step is to cut the holes and place sound deadener under the deck. I am also going to cut a second sheet of Aluminum sheet to go in the area behind the seat back. This will close the front of the car off from the trunk area.
Second Skin has a new Dampening product, Alpha Damp. This is what I plan to put in the floor, under the Luxeryliner Pro. The car should be reasonably quiet, even with the Headers and Pypes Exhaust.
contestant@alphadamp.com
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Feb 2010 ROTM winner
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ROTM Winner's Club
Wow! This is the first I've seen of your rebuild, and I love it. You really are doing it up right! I noticed the hood is fiberglass, and didn't know OER sold any fiberglass parts; quite a surprise. Keep up the great work!
