I have a roller cam now, dont need all the zinc

 

I Believe I will be using driven motor oil conventional 10w 40 after researching it

 

Keep in mind that non-synthetic oils break down over time they also absorb moisture if you do not drive them enough. Don't go by what me or anyone else says look at the change intervals the oil manufacture recommends. Bach in school I was told twice a year was a minimum. Synthetics where not really a thing back then. You need to let the car get to full temp (about 20 minutes ). You can also send your oil out to get it tested. Conventional oil can be broken down faster if your engine is running rich. The gas in the oil will work like a thinner in a conventional oil.

I do agree that a high end machine shop can build an performance engine so it needs very little break in. A moly coated ring in a cylinder that was bored and honed with a head simulators in place would wear in to a sealed ring in minutes. But if the engine builder has an unknown back ground or tells you the motor should be broken in it should be done. While not every engine needs a break in some will benefit from one. With our race engines we cut the first filter a part on every engine to open to see how the break in went. More metal the more of a break in the motor needed. More metal also meant more chance the motor would have issues as the season went on.

 

Some of the real expensive stuff is the absolute best
Like I joke with my buddies, The Nascar cars that have the Penzoil stickers and Valvoline etc.
The oil in their cars is not the same oil we are buying at Walmart
We have Redline and Lucas enthusiasts around here that swear by that stuff and the Amsoil
Without researching the Driven brand stuff, how much $ is it a quart?

 

I met with my engine builder and he recommended Penn Racing oil 20 50 wt so that's what I will go with,