So after a year straight of little tweaks and upgrades to the car, i've learned most of her ins and outs. My main issue i have with the car, which for now I just overlook... the body is twisted... counterclockwise in the front and clockwise in the rear. I had to cut my front passenger spring 2 coils to drop the car enough to level it. Had to put a 3" drop leaf spring on the rear driversside. Have airshocks on the rear... the drivers side is completely deflated, passenegers side is completely inflated. So knowing the floor pans and trunk have been replaced... i'm assuming when the floors were welded in the car either shifted or was tweaked when they welded them in. Is this fixable? I don't have a welding machine or the skills to weld currently. However there is no task on this vehicle so far i won't try. However, something that serious would be further down the road. I would prefer having someone else do it. any ideas on if this can be done what it would cost?

 

To fix something like that correctly would require the body to be put on a frame machine at a body shop and tweaked. With something as drastic as what you're describing, you'd want to remove the windshield and rear window first, as tweaking the body that much will crack the glass (the front and rear glass does give the body some rigidity). Best to go talk to a reputable body shop in your area.

 

Agree with Camaro, but as a quick check, you might visually check subframe to body alignment.
A quick check is sliding your hand between the subframe and floor.
You should be able to slide just your fingers between the frame and body.
If more than this, subframe could be tweaked.
Look at the frame to body attachment points under the seats.
If lots of room between frame and body, the floor may be pulled by the frame as the firewall being the fulcrum.
This action will make the front of the frame go up thus making the visual stance of the Camaro have a fender up in the air.

Sit directly in front of the grille at header height and compare the front header and fender line with the cowl or lower windshield - both should be parallel.

As Camaro said, a good shop and frame person should make the call.
Another sign of tweaked body is a crack at the upper windshield corner to roof at the top of the A pillar.

Usually a high drvr fender is due to high engine torque demands on the body. The fromt left wheel pulls up due to Newton's Law - engine pulls up on the frame as crankshaft turns clockwise.

 

Most shops will not even attempt this repair. The chances of severely damaging the car structure are too high.
When are car is twisted by toque or wrecked you know you can pull it back into shape. If a car is assembled wrong it MAY be pulled into the correct shape but metal and especially welds have their limits. Go beyond that limit and stuff just pulls a part. When you are dealing with a frame machine that pull the frame on a one ton trucks, the sheet metal on a uni-body can be shredded without even straining the machine.

The first step would be to find a frame shop that has a guy that really knows what he is doing. Not one that has a factory trained tech on a single machine that follow all the defined procedures. Get him to hang and measure the car to figure out how far the car is out. Depending on how bad it is he will need to make stress cuts in the car. That is where the skill comes in. Factory trained guys are trained to put a car back to the shape it was not on how to reshape a car that was put together wrong. Forget getting a quote, they will have no clue how much it will cost until the gages show the car is in spec and they check it for additional tears/buckles.

It can cost more to fix a car put together wrong then it would cost to repair a rusted car correctly. I had a friend who was a frame tech back in the 80s, the dealership owner told a friend that fixing his "restored"69 Z28 on his new frame machine would be a piece of cake. 2 weeks later both quarters and rocker had to be repainted. Back then the car was no where near worth what it took to fix it. Even back then 2 weeks on the frame machine was 8K worth of work. A nice 69 z was about 5K at that time.

 

thankyou all for the input, i greatly appreciate all of it!