Thanks for all the pointers, since I have some great expertise in this thread, I wanted to show my shopping list to see if there is anything missing (gaskets/bolts/nuts). Any pointers would be appreciated!

I have also heard that matching the headers to the exhaust may require a muffler shop. Any data on that?

Thanks!
Chris



383 Stroker - Dressed
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3834ctc1
TCI Transmission Kit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tc...98p1/overview/
Flex Plate
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-fp-350l-sfi
Water Pump Kit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-12-0026
Balancer
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-161350
Balancer Bolt
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1677
Headers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g9001-9
Flowmaster Exhaust
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-817129

 

Just curious did the pulleys, brackets and etc come with your car? You are racking up a big bill buying all these kits? I understand using a new water pump and all, a lot of the items you might need can be purchased at your local auto store with a warranty. As for exhaust I would find a reputable muffler shop and let them install flow master mufflers with galvanized custom fit exhaust. Mine ran about $300 installed with flow master mufflers and chrome tips that look amazing. I hope you've thought about getting the power to the ground, is the rear end a 10 bolt or 12 bolt? Posi or one wheel peal? I installed an Eaton Posi Kit in my 12 bolt and had all the bearings and seals replaced. Most stock Camaros don't have traction bars, I would recommend Caltrac Low Profiles that you can adjust pre load to get the power to the ground. Just don't won't you to put so much money and never hook up. At the rate your going you'll have 10k in the Motor and Trans. If you can clean up the old brackets and paint them and use the original pulleys and paint them they might run more true than aftermarket. Just food for thought.

 

I would suggest an 8 inch balancer only because it makes setting the timing slightly easier. I would do a March pulley kit that includes every nut, bolt, bracket and is designed for whatever kit you want. I don't know if you thought about AC or if you want it? I would also get motor mounts and trans mounts they are cheap and easy to replace with the motor out. Header bolts I would use ARP because they are easy to get on and off... Harmonic balancer bolt, and flex plate bolts, torque converter bolts again ARP. There the best for a reason and the price difference is not that much. Your going to need lock tight and bolt installation lube or torque lube. But why the engines out check out the heater core, and see if you need to fix the heater blower motor. Don't forget power steering pump if you have power steering. Brake master cylinder and etc. while motor is out is also great to check. Driveline replace u joints they are cheap and easy as long as its out.. Now to the rear end? Also as a PS the HEI distributor is probably not going to clear the firewall this would be a good time to create the indentation to make it fit or order a smaller distributor I used MSD..