and no problem with putting the GM motor in that's identified as a truck motor?

 

it will bolt into your car. Looks like the warranty is longer if you install it in the listed truck vehicles...and ironically a Vette. Otherwise it has a 12 month/12k mi warranty

Apparently this part # supersedes the one you note but its Summit

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12681429

also says to remove the pilot bearing for auto trans....maybe it sticks out of the crank some IDK but they are easy to remove with the right tool

 

Thanks very much SoCal67. Appreciate the advice and your time. Hope to be on the road again soon.

 

These are just base replacement engines although I agree that a "new" vs rebuilt is better. You can go with a little more cam than what it comes with as long as the lift does not exceed the listed max with those heads. You would likely need better springs if you did put a bigger cam in it

Otherwise it should be a good driver motor

 

Thanks again SoCal67. Every time I look for help on this forum I get a response from you, and others, and I always learn something new. Appreciate it.

 

Yeah as SoCal said it's just a Chevy small block that will bolt in anything from a '55 Chevy car to a 1990's pickup truck and then some.
That said I haven't heard real good things about the mexico block castings for late crate engines,at least not for serious engine building to make HP.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevro...l-block_engine

 

The engine discussed is just a basic "replacement" 350. Not built for high HP as it is just a 2 bolt main, 8.5:1 compression (low) and 74cc heads

Tightening up the quench and decking/porting the heads would improve HP along with putting in a mild cam but lift is restricted for those kind of heads.

It could be easily pushed to 250 ish HP and run for years and years with some machining, cam.

With that said I would buy another 350, likely a center bolt one piece rear main and vortex heads as a GM crate motor if I as going to make it a 350 HP, 7k rpm motor

Just depends on use intent. The budget 350 will work fine as a driver motor

 

I have installed a lot of these, Back in the 80's GM called them the "GM target master 350". They are bullet proof and will respond well to Heads/Cam but after saying that the above GM crate motor with 290hp and 24 month x 50,000 miles warranty for $750 more seems like the best value.

If you get that base engine in there and decide you want more power, the heads cam combo will cost you at least $1500 and end your warranty that day. I know most people don't care about the value of their car but if you would sell the car in the next few years the 300 hp engine will increase the value of the more then it costs vs the 200 hp option. To clarify 300 factory HP should add about $1200 to $1500 to the value of the car over the 200 hp option. Unless you wreck it or burn it to the ground you will at some point get your $750 back plus.

I do agree rebuilds should be left to people that have very specific needs or wants for an engine. Re-manufactured can be fine but always has a higher early failure rate then new. The other option is finding a low miles used engine that is in good running condition and going through it with new seal. I did that with my 96 Camaro and drove it for 6 years 100,000 with very few problems. (see below 96 build thread)

 

I think I'm leaning toward a remanufactured engine. I like the new GM crate motors, but the warranty drops to 12/12 if I put it in my 69 Camaro. Still researching. Thanks

 

Pace Performance sells a GM crate engine 350/300 hp. I like those for street driven cars. 76 cc heads for pump gas. Reasonable cam profiles for stock torque converters and regular street driving. They are new and not rebuilt.
I like the ATK engines. They have reasonable street compression and reasonable cam profiles.
I don't like the commonly advertised Blue Print engines because they have cam profiles that are not street friendly.