I opened up my distributor the other day and the ground wire was connected to the vacuum can screw the other end that goes to the breaker plate was just hanging. I don't know if this was originally soldered on or if it used a screw. I think there is a threaded hole that I could use if I new the size and where to get a new screw. You guys have any suggestions? Also, getting the new vacuum can in was a huge pain because the breaker plate was in the way. I could rotate it slightly to get to the screws but it was very difficult. What is the best way to do this without removing the distributor? Thanks in advance

 

I have 3 points distributors, The cast iron one has the wire attaching on top of the breaker plate by means of a spot welded bracket with 2 crimping tabs that hold the ground wire. The 2 aluminum dist.s have the same spot welded bracket on the bottom of the breaker plate. If you use a vacuum pump on the advance unit that will give you room with a screw driver. That threaded hole will work with a short screw and putting awire connector on the other end of the wire.

 

that makes sense, thanks for the reply!

 

If you don't have a vacuum pump, you can take a screwdriver and push on the breaker plate to collapse the diaphragm while you put a vacuum cap over the vacuum nipple or leave the hose attached and use your tongue on the end of the hose to hold the diaphragm which frees up both hands to unscrew and remove the diaphragm.

 

thanks Al! That's another great suggestions!

 

Man, great call on the vacuum pump! I wish I would have used that to rotate the breaker plate when I put the new vacuum can in the first time. I didn't have a screw to attach the new ground wire directly to the plate so I put it on the screw holding the points to the plate.

 

Good idea. I've used the Ford ground strap on some of my distributor rebuilds, copper braided with eyelets on both ends. I still have one of those straps. That rectangular hole in the plate is where the lube wick goes for the cam. Your cam should be shiny. Put a dab of Teflon grease behind the rubbing block of the points. I still have a tube of Lubricam made by Blue Streak. ARP cam grease would work as well. Clean the cam with lacquer thinner or brake clean on a clean rag.

 

That jumper ground wire from the points plate to the vacuum can is redundant and not needed. Both the negative coil wire, and the condenser wire connect to that ground screw on the points, that is all.

 

The condenser housing needs a constant ground to help suppress arcing and boost the coil output by creating a resonant LC circuit with the coil windings.