Help deciphering engine "build sheet"
#1
Help deciphering engine "build sheet"
Would greatly appreciate any help deciphering the attachment. Trying to adjust my valves, at least one can be turned 180 by hand. Is "build card" the proper term? Am I reading it correctly that the hot valve clearance on intake and exhaust should be set at zero? Any additional info would be greatly appreciated. 69 Camaro with a 73 350 from a Z28
#3
Preliminary adjustment is as follows. This assuming your '73 engine has the stock hydraulic cam and not solid lifters
After this they should have final adjustment done with the engine running, you'll want a set of oil deflector clips for that procedure.
Adjust until pushrod will not spin between fingers and then add ¼ turn and tighten poly lock.
Important! read below.
You will only turn the engine 2 times. TDC #1 and TDC #6
Adjusting Valves Small Block Chevy
Get #1 to Top Dead Center
Get #6 to Top Dead Center
After this they should have final adjustment done with the engine running, you'll want a set of oil deflector clips for that procedure.
Adjust until pushrod will not spin between fingers and then add ¼ turn and tighten poly lock.
Important! read below.
You will only turn the engine 2 times. TDC #1 and TDC #6
Adjusting Valves Small Block Chevy
Exh.- 1 3 4 -8
Int.- 1- 2 5 - 7
Int.- 1- 2 5 - 7
Exh.- 2 5 6 7
Int.- 3 4- 6 - 8
Int.- 3 4- 6 - 8
#5
Thanks for the advice gentlemen. Since the cam card indicates it has a hydraulic lifter camshaft, should I assume that it has hydraulic lifters also? I'm sure the answer is obvious, but is there any way to visually differentiate between a hydraulic and solid lifters? Will solid lifters work with a hydraulic lifter camshaft? Is there any reason I should suspect it might have solid lifters with a hydraulic lifter camshaft?
#6
Hydraulic will not work on solid camshaft and vice versa.
Best method finding out if hydraulic lifter is put the selected lifter on base circle of lobe and as suggested by Al, turn nut additional 1/4 turn.
Wait 20-30 minutes, then re-check pushrod by turning it, or check rocker for looseness.. If it turns or rocks, lifter has bled done, then hydraulic.
Best method finding out if hydraulic lifter is put the selected lifter on base circle of lobe and as suggested by Al, turn nut additional 1/4 turn.
Wait 20-30 minutes, then re-check pushrod by turning it, or check rocker for looseness.. If it turns or rocks, lifter has bled done, then hydraulic.
#8
Two more questions. I very carefully followed Y2Keglide's instructions, and after I tightened the poly locks again checked the push rods and they did not turn. After completing all cylinders I went back and double checked the poly locks, and push rods, but I was able to rotate some of the push rods with a little bit of effort.
Should I assume this is because of the hydraulic function of the lifters? Should I not worry about it at this point because this is only the initial adjustment?
Should I assume this is because of the hydraulic function of the lifters? Should I not worry about it at this point because this is only the initial adjustment?
#9
Well you can always run through it again to be sure but I suspect it is.
Might not be a bad idea to go through it again to be sure.
At any rate you still have to do the final, any that are a little loose will let you know pretty quick as they will clatter.
Better a little loose than too tight.
Might not be a bad idea to go through it again to be sure.
At any rate you still have to do the final, any that are a little loose will let you know pretty quick as they will clatter.
Better a little loose than too tight.