Help deciphering engine "build sheet"

  #1  
Old 04-13-2019, 12:18 PM
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Default Help deciphering engine "build sheet"

Would greatly appreciate any help deciphering the attachment. Trying to adjust my valves, at least one can be turned 180 by hand. Is "build card" the proper term? Am I reading it correctly that the hot valve clearance on intake and exhaust should be set at zero? Any additional info would be greatly appreciated. 69 Camaro with a 73 350 from a Z28


 
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Old 04-13-2019, 02:44 PM
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Cam card and with it reading zero lash, it's a hydraulic lifter camshaft.
Card reads telling you the advertised duration the valves are open, add 180 degrees to the sum of values given.
 
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Old 04-13-2019, 03:09 PM
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Preliminary adjustment is as follows. This assuming your '73 engine has the stock hydraulic cam and not solid lifters
After this they should have final adjustment done with the engine running, you'll want a set of oil deflector clips for that procedure.
Adjust until pushrod will not spin between fingers and then add turn and tighten poly lock.

Important! read below.
You will only turn the engine 2 times. TDC #1 and TDC #6

Adjusting ValvesSmall Block Chevy

Get #1 to Top Dead Center
Exh.- 1 – 3 – 4 -8
Int.- 1- 2 – 5 - 7

Get #6 to Top Dead Center
Exh.- 2 – 5 – 6 – 7
Int.- 3 – 4- 6 - 8



 
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Old 04-13-2019, 03:18 PM
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Old 04-13-2019, 05:21 PM
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Thanks for the advice gentlemen. Since the cam card indicates it has a hydraulic lifter camshaft, should I assume that it has hydraulic lifters also? I'm sure the answer is obvious, but is there any way to visually differentiate between a hydraulic and solid lifters? Will solid lifters work with a hydraulic lifter camshaft? Is there any reason I should suspect it might have solid lifters with a hydraulic lifter camshaft?
 
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Old 04-14-2019, 06:32 AM
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Hydraulic will not work on solid camshaft and vice versa.
Best method finding out if hydraulic lifter is put the selected lifter on base circle of lobe and as suggested by Al, turn nut additional 1/4 turn.
Wait 20-30 minutes, then re-check pushrod by turning it, or check rocker for looseness.. If it turns or rocks, lifter has bled done, then hydraulic.
 
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Old 04-14-2019, 06:40 AM
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thanks very much
 
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Old 04-14-2019, 09:41 AM
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Two more questions. I very carefully followed Y2Keglide's instructions, and after I tightened the poly locks again checked the push rods and they did not turn. After completing all cylinders I went back and double checked the poly locks, and push rods, but I was able to rotate some of the push rods with a little bit of effort.

Should I assume this is because of the hydraulic function of the lifters? Should I not worry about it at this point because this is only the initial adjustment?
 
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Old 04-14-2019, 10:09 AM
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Well you can always run through it again to be sure but I suspect it is.
Might not be a bad idea to go through it again to be sure.
At any rate you still have to do the final, any that are a little loose will let you know pretty quick as they will clatter.
Better a little loose than too tight.
 
  #10  
Old 04-14-2019, 10:10 AM
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Oh and when you do the final the engine may run a little rough for a bit when you adjust one, give it a little time to smooth out and get back in sync.
 

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