Getting started on 67 rebuild
Hey everyone. I got myself into a 67 RS last summer for way more than it should have cost me, and I was really upset about when it stopped working shortly after. Starter problems mostly, as well as a myriad of other issues, but it's a long story. Anyway, I think I'm finally ready to tear into this thing, and get it built back up, nice and clean. The problem is, I've never done this before, and not really sure where to start.
I have a whole bunch of books (assembly manuals, wiring diagrams, build books, etc), but that doesn't change that fact that I'm starting this from scratch. I'm just looking for some advice to start out so I'm not running through the forest with my eyes closed here.
Just to help visualize what I want to do...
What I have:
-67 coupe, badged/grilled as RS, but don't know if that is original (how do you tell?)
-383 stroker (that's all i know, really)
-no visible rust, but undercarriage is extremely grimy and filthy
-leaks oil from everywhere
-starter makes a horrible grinding sound and fails to turn the motor over (replaced it once, and the problem came back)
-4-speed manual which revs around 3700RPM in 4th gear at 60mph
-battery keeps dying
What I want (i am willing to spend a few years and a reasonable sum of money on this)
-67 coupe, with all styling returned to original (RS is fine, if that's what it was)
-built SBC (might stay with 383), possible turbo setup
-clean up the frame, suspension, etc (wash, blast, prime, and paint)
-no more leaks
-reliable car for (almost) daily driving
-5-speed manual tranny so it's driveable, but fun
-4-wheel disc brakes
So... with that, I open the floor to you all. Comments, questions, suggestions... all are helpful! Thanks
I have a whole bunch of books (assembly manuals, wiring diagrams, build books, etc), but that doesn't change that fact that I'm starting this from scratch. I'm just looking for some advice to start out so I'm not running through the forest with my eyes closed here.
Just to help visualize what I want to do...
What I have:
-67 coupe, badged/grilled as RS, but don't know if that is original (how do you tell?)
-383 stroker (that's all i know, really)
-no visible rust, but undercarriage is extremely grimy and filthy
-leaks oil from everywhere
-starter makes a horrible grinding sound and fails to turn the motor over (replaced it once, and the problem came back)
-4-speed manual which revs around 3700RPM in 4th gear at 60mph
-battery keeps dying
What I want (i am willing to spend a few years and a reasonable sum of money on this)
-67 coupe, with all styling returned to original (RS is fine, if that's what it was)
-built SBC (might stay with 383), possible turbo setup
-clean up the frame, suspension, etc (wash, blast, prime, and paint)
-no more leaks
-reliable car for (almost) daily driving
-5-speed manual tranny so it's driveable, but fun
-4-wheel disc brakes
So... with that, I open the floor to you all. Comments, questions, suggestions... all are helpful! Thanks
Last edited by nivek; Jun 30, 2009 at 09:33 PM. Reason: new build status & problems
By no means am I experienced at rebuilding cars (yet) so take my response with a grain of salt. But having managed multiple projects, there seems to be a lot of similarities
First, I would work on the disassembly (interior, pulling the engine/trans, etc.) It may help, at least I know it does for me, to have bins/boxes marked for parts/bolts to go in so you know where things came from. After everything is pulled, since you said you wanted to get it media blasted, I would work on gettng that set up and done. While the body is there you can work on cleaning up the frame and upgrading your brakes.
Once you get the body back from blasting, send it to paint to get that taken care of.
While being painted, you can work on your engine/tranny and get those up to your desired specs.
Get the body back, reassemble interior and insert engine/tranny
Did I miss much???
First, I would work on the disassembly (interior, pulling the engine/trans, etc.) It may help, at least I know it does for me, to have bins/boxes marked for parts/bolts to go in so you know where things came from. After everything is pulled, since you said you wanted to get it media blasted, I would work on gettng that set up and done. While the body is there you can work on cleaning up the frame and upgrading your brakes.
Once you get the body back from blasting, send it to paint to get that taken care of.
While being painted, you can work on your engine/tranny and get those up to your desired specs.
Get the body back, reassemble interior and insert engine/tranny
Did I miss much???
I'm in the middle of doing one now. My advice is this:
Check the vin to see exactly what you have, then check the build codes to see what options you have. (i don't know where thats at on 1st gens)
Like the previous poster said, gut everything. I mean everything! If you don't know for sure whats under the hood, find out. Measure the bore, etc. Its hard to tell, but usually people lie about what the motor is. You'll find out its probobly a 350 or even a 305. If whatever motor you have doesn't match what should have been in the car.....start over. I cannot believe how many people on this site and others that have a non-matching number motor dump all kinds of time and money into it looking for "more power" or "better sound" or "cheap mods". You get what you pay for, so do that part right.
The tranny...... Is it the original 4 speed? If so, keep it. If not, whats wrong with a strong automatic? Most are stronger than manuals and can be just as fun. I cannot believe how many posts and threads there are for "manual conversion" I never understood peoples hard on over stick.
Take your time, take a lot of pictures do it in a garage with as much space and light possible. Have Fun!
Check the vin to see exactly what you have, then check the build codes to see what options you have. (i don't know where thats at on 1st gens)
Like the previous poster said, gut everything. I mean everything! If you don't know for sure whats under the hood, find out. Measure the bore, etc. Its hard to tell, but usually people lie about what the motor is. You'll find out its probobly a 350 or even a 305. If whatever motor you have doesn't match what should have been in the car.....start over. I cannot believe how many people on this site and others that have a non-matching number motor dump all kinds of time and money into it looking for "more power" or "better sound" or "cheap mods". You get what you pay for, so do that part right.
The tranny...... Is it the original 4 speed? If so, keep it. If not, whats wrong with a strong automatic? Most are stronger than manuals and can be just as fun. I cannot believe how many posts and threads there are for "manual conversion" I never understood peoples hard on over stick.
Take your time, take a lot of pictures do it in a garage with as much space and light possible. Have Fun!
I agree with the other 2 posters. Mostly keep track of everything you take off the camaro. I didnt and am paying for it now. I have a project thread going on here with lots of pics https://camaroforums.com/forum/67-69-projects-106/my-69-camaro-project-18688/
I too have a 67 RS camaro my dad and i purchased about a week before he passed away. It was just a simple roller car no motor or tranny but that is what we wanted so we could build it how we wanted it. I agree with the others about keeping parts and pieces in a organized manner and the best way i have learned is Ziplock bags and a permanent maker. Right now as far as i have gotten is the disk brake conversion kit I ordered it from Year One. The only problem I had with it was that i took over a month to get it. It came from SSB Stainless Steele Brakes I would try to order it from there direct, cause I just called them this morning and had them send me another spindle nut cause the threads on my driver side spindle were crossed or something causing the nut threads to strip. Any way the guy on the phone said I would have it by next friday. So i dont know why it took the other three weeks for year one. Well good luck on your build and believe me you aint alone I have no mechanical bone in my body but im gonna do every step of it myself for me and for my dad. Just remember they didnt have robots back in 67 well that i know of. So if a man built it once a man can build it again.
OK, so I got really wrapped up in work for a while. Haven't made much progress other than a (mostly) new ignition system. I also had the starter repaired when it began grinding and failed to turn the engine over. It worked just fine for a couple months of regular driving, but it suddenly threw in the towel again a couple weeks ago. It just so happened that my new brakes and suspension arrived the day after it broke, and there's currently no suspension on the car.
I really want to fix the starter while I have it up on stands though. What bugs me is this is the third time I've had symptoms like this with the starter. I replaced it once myself, and had a reputable shop do the work the second time around. Now it's busted again, and I'm at a loss. Can anybody give me some thoughts to fix this once and for all??
I'll post a picture, then explain what I'm seeing/hearing...

So the first thing I notice after crawling under the car is that ~1/4" to 1/2" gap between the starter bracket and the dust cover. I know the picture is kinda tough to see, but it's hard getting the right angle for the camera around the headers! Anyway, once the problem surfaces, the starter goes from working perfectly, then to grinding on the flywheel, and not turning the motor. This time though, all I'm hearing is the whine/whirr of the starter spinning. It's not even contacting the flywheel (possibly a blessing in disguise). When I had the shop replace it last time, they said one of the bolts on the starter was bent. They ended up just replacing the bolts, and re-using the starter. Now, looking at it, I'm pretty sure at least one of the bolts is going to be bent again.
SO: What keeps happening? Why? and... How do I make it stop?
I really want to fix the starter while I have it up on stands though. What bugs me is this is the third time I've had symptoms like this with the starter. I replaced it once myself, and had a reputable shop do the work the second time around. Now it's busted again, and I'm at a loss. Can anybody give me some thoughts to fix this once and for all??
I'll post a picture, then explain what I'm seeing/hearing...

So the first thing I notice after crawling under the car is that ~1/4" to 1/2" gap between the starter bracket and the dust cover. I know the picture is kinda tough to see, but it's hard getting the right angle for the camera around the headers! Anyway, once the problem surfaces, the starter goes from working perfectly, then to grinding on the flywheel, and not turning the motor. This time though, all I'm hearing is the whine/whirr of the starter spinning. It's not even contacting the flywheel (possibly a blessing in disguise). When I had the shop replace it last time, they said one of the bolts on the starter was bent. They ended up just replacing the bolts, and re-using the starter. Now, looking at it, I'm pretty sure at least one of the bolts is going to be bent again.
SO: What keeps happening? Why? and... How do I make it stop?
On other than stock small block chevys I have found that stock starters or a cheap rebuilt ones get miss-aligned easily. Here are two suggestions; there should be a threaded hole in the block next to the starter, on the end opposite the starter drive. If you put a brace from the block to the starter that should take care it. Many old small blocks had a stock one. Or you can buy an after market higher torque starter. Summit Racing has them, they are a lot smaller in diameter and you can get em in chrome. They have a much more solid mounting surface and they don't move around.
But follow the instructions when installing it so you start with the right clearance. And use new bolts.
good luck
But follow the instructions when installing it so you start with the right clearance. And use new bolts.
good luck
The starter is a high torque piece i got from Summit. New bolts are a must for sure. I will have to look for a bracket though. Never seen one, but it sounds like a good idea. I might have to fiddle with the shims too, perhaps adjusting the clearance would help resolve the issue?
OK, so as a follow-up question about the starter brackets... I looked around and found some, but I can't tell whether or not any of the brackets will work with an other-than-stock starter. Can anyone tell me for sure if they will fit, or if there is someone who offers a bracket for aftermarket starters? Thanks!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




