Drum Brakes question
#1
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First car that has all 4 drum brakes for me they work good when cold but after when they get hot they stop way to fast if you put your foot on the brake like when there are cold. You have to press so lightly on it when there hot is there adjustment needed it or is that just drum brakes? Also it has a power brake booster should A all 4 drum brake car have booster on it?
#2
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Might need a new master cylinder,might need fresh brake fluid and or slave cylinders rebuilt.
Many 4 wheel drum brake cars in the '60's had power brakes,even front discs were rare until the later '60's and into the '70's,most had drums all around.
Has the car been sitting for a while?
Many 4 wheel drum brake cars in the '60's had power brakes,even front discs were rare until the later '60's and into the '70's,most had drums all around.
Has the car been sitting for a while?
#3
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,379
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Sounds like bad soft lines. They can make the front brakes very grabby. The soft lines are the flexible lines that allow the drum to turn around corners. There is also a flexible line in the rear that allows the axle move up and down. These hoses should be replaced every 8-10. years. What normally happens is the inside of the hose start to come apart and blocks the hose. The pressure from the master cylinder is high, 300-500 PSI. That pressure can push through the plugged hose. The only thing pushing the pressure back to the master cylinders is the springs at the brake shoes. The springs are not strong enough to return the brake shoes to where they are supposed to be. So the brake is on. Then when hit the brakes the next time they feel instant. There is a lot of heat generated during this and it does tend to make it worse the more you drive it.
With the age of these cars the brakes should really be inspected by someone that really knows what they are doing. If you have not been properly serviced over the years it may just be time to replace everything. I did mine a few years ago. I replaced the whole hydraulic side . You can see some of the repairs in my 67 wake up thread in my signature. I would bet the brakes had less then 2000 miles on them and the last person in there replaced all the hardware. I did my front hoses even tho they worked fine, just due to time. I believe the rears flexible hose was bad. I think 10-12 years is a good number for wheel cylinders. You can just get away with replacing the wheel cylinder seals but in most cases it is not worth the extra work. I have done it on cars when I knew the lines would break if I removed them. You are just delaying replacing the lines in that case. I am sure you can find videos on youtube.
With the age of these cars the brakes should really be inspected by someone that really knows what they are doing. If you have not been properly serviced over the years it may just be time to replace everything. I did mine a few years ago. I replaced the whole hydraulic side . You can see some of the repairs in my 67 wake up thread in my signature. I would bet the brakes had less then 2000 miles on them and the last person in there replaced all the hardware. I did my front hoses even tho they worked fine, just due to time. I believe the rears flexible hose was bad. I think 10-12 years is a good number for wheel cylinders. You can just get away with replacing the wheel cylinder seals but in most cases it is not worth the extra work. I have done it on cars when I knew the lines would break if I removed them. You are just delaying replacing the lines in that case. I am sure you can find videos on youtube.
Last edited by Gorn; 01-08-2023 at 08:28 PM.
#4
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before i bought it they replaced master cylinder and when bled them when i first got the car i had to replace the wheel cylinders and put new shoes on. I never touched the rubber lines makes sense they probably need to be replaced ill see if that fixes it thanks for all the reply's
#5
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before i bought it they replaced master cylinder and when bled them when i first got the car i had to replace the wheel cylinders and put new shoes on. I never touched the rubber lines makes sense they probably need to be replaced ill see if that fixes it thanks for all the reply's
If it were my car I'd consider doing a front disc brake conversion.
#6
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OP
My 67 was also 4 wheel power drum brakes. Replacing the soft lines is a must if they are old including the whel cylinders
I did, as suggested by another post, do a front disc conversion. Night & day difference. I used the Right Stuff power disc kit for 14" rims. Install was easy and straight forward. It was a $600 kit. Can get replacement pads & calipers at any auto part store when needed
My 67 was also 4 wheel power drum brakes. Replacing the soft lines is a must if they are old including the whel cylinders
I did, as suggested by another post, do a front disc conversion. Night & day difference. I used the Right Stuff power disc kit for 14" rims. Install was easy and straight forward. It was a $600 kit. Can get replacement pads & calipers at any auto part store when needed
#7
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,379
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For anyone that is new to all drum brakes. Assume the car in front of you can stop 4 times faster then you or requires 1/4 the distance to come to a stop. Seem to me about every 10 year manufactured made a significant improvement in brakes. Also keep in mind that with the first gens there was not a lot of reason to make better brakes because the stock tires kind of sucked. The brakes on a 4th gen where huge upgrades. Most of the more recent improvements where in the anti lock (raining) and they are less likely to over heat if pushed hard.
Conversions can be done on a budget but it is critical you understand the systems involved. For some that is not a expert there should be a lot of researcher. Master cylinders and the combination value need addressed. Of course test the crap out of whatever you do.
https://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/merch...ry_Code=BRK12F
Conversions can be done on a budget but it is critical you understand the systems involved. For some that is not a expert there should be a lot of researcher. Master cylinders and the combination value need addressed. Of course test the crap out of whatever you do.
https://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/merch...ry_Code=BRK12F
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