TO recap my introduction. I just turned 36. I've had my 69 since I was 15. It had an on frame resto in 89. But the rust devil came back with avengence. THe car is now apart. I have a friend that i traded some work with ready to rebuild the car. However the unibody has deep rot. So I am torn. Do I burn up my trade, cutting deep into the unibody and trying to keep it straight, or do I go the route of a dynacorn body? I've read varying opinions. But now it's time to direct it at this project. Please chime in. I have no problem with constructive criticism. I don't plan on ever selling the car, and would disclose the new body if I ever did. I am still researching the issues of vin in the State of North Carolina. Any information on that would be appreciated as well.
Bill

 

I guess it really depends on how far gone the body is, and how the cost of replacement parts & time spent compares to the cost (around 15k) for a new body. It sure is a lot easier to buy a new body, but then technically it isn't your original car anymore.
And removing a VIN tag for any reason is a Federal Offense, not a law that differs from state-to-state. So buying a new body, and swapping your existing VIN tag onto it is a big no-no. However, as far as I'm aware, saving your existing cowl/dash panel (with VIN attached) and attaching a new body to it is still legal, since technically it isn't VIN tampering.
Some restorers do the same thing in stages, save the cowl and build a whole new car around it piece by piece with new panels. And that's basically what you would be doing with a Dynacorn body, just all in one shot.

 

Thank you for that info. as simple as the advice is, I was trying to figure how the car could remain a 1969, and legally undergo restoration with this body. Like I said, I am a novice at restoration. And the laws regarding this full "replacement part" body have been baffling. But that makes sense. It's a major part replacement, but does the entire dash panel need to be salvaged or just an area around the vin? and the Firewall, should as much of it as practically be saved i guess? And I have heard the vin is on other parts of the vehicle as well. Would this be the front clip and rear? or are there other areas on the unibody?
THe main issue is one doing it legally, and two I metioned I have a valued trade for some other work I did with the fellow that is going to do my restoration. I want ot get the car as close to complete as possible off the trade value, therefore countless hours of cutting and replacing parts deep into the body can be better used assembling the vehicle body and working on the front clip and mechanics. Do you know anyone that has used a dynacorn body? Thanks for taking the time to write.
Bill

 

I would not want to buy a dynacorn just on principle, however, that is my opinion. I am DEEP in the middle of getting my car rust free. So I don't see any project too big, but then again I might be blind not to see really how big this projet is. I do know that it is a TON of work, but I am choosing to do it all myself. Either way, best of luck to you!!!

My question is if you did get a dynacorn body and put the VIN and COwl tag on it, would anyone really notice?

 

Someone who really knows their stuff would be able to tell. I don't care how close to original the Dynacorn body is, there are going to be some slight differences from factory original. If that is detected, then that gives a person reason to dig even deeper. And someone concerned with the origin of the car, could look at the tags next. The factory used different type of rivets (and riveting processes) that aren't the same as your garden variety rivets. They are available in the aftermarket, but installing and making them look exactly as GM did, is more difficult.

 

Well I can see the pricipal thing. If I had unlimted time and funds to do this and was willing to learn as I go, maybe I'd spenda fewyears working on it. But I don't have the time, I run a business, and unfortunately I traded a job for the work on the car. Originally it was thought to be in good shape, but after it came apart, the door jams are deeply rotted. At the jam where the brackets mount as well as the post at the rear of the door. The Firewall has substantial rust, the trunk pan, the inside of the frame rails are rusted. I do wonder how straight a car will be if it's completely disected, and rebuilt from separate parts. Thats one of the few perks ot the dynacorn body. I wouldn't ever try to pass the body off as original, I do want it to legally remain the car it is with out having to apply for a new vin. I plan on being buried in the car. Just can't completely make up my mind. Use 7 grand in trade on putting together a new body and all, or burn that trade up in slicing and dicing the rust bucket.

 

I've spent may hours repairing rust in the old Jeep cherokee I used to have, and I eventually gave up. To do it right, it needed new quater panels on each side, a pass. side door skin, new floor pans, new front fenderwells on both side, and so so much more. It got so dang expensive, and there was too much bondo for my taste. What I'm getting at is if you can afford the complete body, it would be less work. I don't persanally like bondo or any mud on a body for that matter. To me, there should be metal under the paint. Good luck with the rebuild.

 

Buy the dynacorn All your doing is rebodying the car. This was done when arare car was totaled out in a collision. the dynacorn body will come with an MSO all you have to do is put your vin on the car and let the state know. They just want to know it wasn't a body from a stolen car.

 

I've spent may hours repairing rust in the old Jeep cherokee I used to have, and I eventually gave up. To do it right, it needed new quater panels on each side, a pass. side door skin, new floor pans, new front fenderwells on both side, and so so much more.

That's funny. That sounds like my car!