Best way to allign front clip?
What is the best way that you guys have found to allign the front clip and hood on your 1st gen restores?
I have heard that some guys leave the front sub-frame bolts loose enough so it can be moved and rough mount all of the front sheet metal.
Next allign the cowling to the front windshield where it should be and then get the hood mounted so you have a nice gap between the rear of the hood and the cowl.
After this you should then be able to allign the fenders and fine tune all of your gaps.
If you run into issues with gaps you then have the option to shift the sub-frame slighty to get everything to allign.
Once everything is alligned tighten the sub-frame down.
Any tips or tricks you might have I would be interested in hearing.
Thanks
I have heard that some guys leave the front sub-frame bolts loose enough so it can be moved and rough mount all of the front sheet metal.
Next allign the cowling to the front windshield where it should be and then get the hood mounted so you have a nice gap between the rear of the hood and the cowl.
After this you should then be able to allign the fenders and fine tune all of your gaps.
If you run into issues with gaps you then have the option to shift the sub-frame slighty to get everything to allign.
Once everything is alligned tighten the sub-frame down.
Any tips or tricks you might have I would be interested in hearing.
Thanks
The frame is mounted first. There isn't too much room for adjustment here. Besides, this is relative to the drive-train and wheel alignment not the fenders. Corner measurements and long straight piece of metal can help align the frames rails up underneath. Measure, measure and measure again as you tighten each bolt.
With the subframe mounted you can mount the radiator support (not much room for adjustment here either) then mount the wiper grill(cowl), top and bottom valence panels. All of these have a pretty fixed placement.
Next, use a low-tack masking tape on the edges of your fenders where they meet with the other panels (So you don't chip the paint) and mount them loosely. The fenders will line up with the doors and the front panels. These need to be set first because your hood springs mount to the fenders. Tighten up the fenders (using whatever shims you need to get the right gaps. Just don't crank down on them yet.
Bring in the hood, again taped up for protection, and align with the fenders, valence and cowl (wiper cover).
I use hard plastic wedges or wood to adjust and maneuver so it won't scratch the paint.
It will be best to have someone help you too.
With the subframe mounted you can mount the radiator support (not much room for adjustment here either) then mount the wiper grill(cowl), top and bottom valence panels. All of these have a pretty fixed placement.
Next, use a low-tack masking tape on the edges of your fenders where they meet with the other panels (So you don't chip the paint) and mount them loosely. The fenders will line up with the doors and the front panels. These need to be set first because your hood springs mount to the fenders. Tighten up the fenders (using whatever shims you need to get the right gaps. Just don't crank down on them yet.
Bring in the hood, again taped up for protection, and align with the fenders, valence and cowl (wiper cover).
I use hard plastic wedges or wood to adjust and maneuver so it won't scratch the paint.
It will be best to have someone help you too.
I think it is best to have the doors exactly set to the quarter panel seam and rocker seam before looking at the fenders. These two lines can not be moved, so they would be the logical starting point.
To set your sub-frame Johnny Nitro is correct, bolt it up loosely and measure diagonally. The best time to start setting your panels is before you paint. We mount the entire front clip, fit everything and then remove it to paint. If you are already painted, definately do like he said, use masking tape on your edges it saves a lot of dispair. I use carpenter's shims for adjusting, works slick cause of the wedge shape.
I have a great tool for alignment. In my business, I use these miniature airbags. They fold to less than 1/8 inch thick, and inflate to over 2 inches with 500lbsof pressure. They are rubber/plastic so they don't hurt the paint! Works great on the fenders and doors. You can loosely tighten the bolts and the air bag will force the panel to move through the bolt pressure.
One thing to keep in mind. If your building it to build it, all the suggestions are spot on and great.
If you are restoring it to as it was in 69' then remeber, those panels where rarely aligned perfect. It is something most don't think about but as that car came down the assembly line I can bet you they didn't worry about a 1/8 inch off.
Look at some 100 point 69's and you'll see the fenders are not perfect to the body, and do so for a reason.
If you are restoring it to as it was in 69' then remeber, those panels where rarely aligned perfect. It is something most don't think about but as that car came down the assembly line I can bet you they didn't worry about a 1/8 inch off.
Look at some 100 point 69's and you'll see the fenders are not perfect to the body, and do so for a reason.
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