Anyone know how far the throw should be on the master cylinder?

How far the rod should press the piston at full travel??????

NON POWERED F&R DRUMS

Thank you!

 

I'm not sure, but what issue are you having that is making you question this?

 

Well, the setup is not in a 69 Camaro.

But, it is a 69 Camaro F&R Drum setup. (With 69 Camaro front clip and rear end)

The pedal assembly could be from anything... I don't know.
So, I need to know what the total throw should be when installed in the stock application.

I had replaced the Master, Wheel Cylinders, Shoes, Hardware, Lines, all with new parts, and wasn't getting pressure.

Turned out I had a bad brand new master cylinder.

I replaced that, and now I get pressure, but it still seems like it should be more.

System is bled. Guaranteed I have no air. I have bled them by 3 methods and have run an obsurd amount of fluid through, just to be 100% Certain.

I need to know what the throw should be so I can make sure I'm there. I don't want to be anything less than 100% stock performance.

 

I don't have the measurements but your 4 wheel drum isn't going to be anywhere close to what you're used to for braking ability

Did you bench bleed your master before installing it? Lots of people don't do that and it makes a big difference. Also, on stock brake pedals (at least on the Camaro set-up) there are two different hole positions for the rod going to ther master. One for manual and one for power. A lot of people don't know about that either and that makes a huge difference about the amount of force needed to stop the brakes

 

If you were using the full travel of the master cylinder, it still wont move much more than maybe 1.5" total. But if the shoes or pads are fully adjusted the amount of travel will vary, and in no situation should you be using full travel anyway, as it would bottom out the piston in the master. With properly adjusted brakes the piston travel wont be more than maybe 1".
Make sure your master is bench bled and that all the brakes are adjusted so that when the drum is turned they just lightly touch. That way you'll get the least shoe travel, and least master piston travel.

 

I primed the master before installing, yes.

I also made sure the adjusters were cleaned very well, and lightly greased them to ensure smooth function.

I can't use the second hole on the pedal assembly (Who knows what it's from) since it is too low and the rod would be at too much of an angle.

Haven't really had a chance to mess with it more, so we'll see.

I'll get after it this week and ensure the adjustment is correct so the shoes are 'snug' and maybe give her another bleed just to be certain.

Beyond that, the only thing I can think of is that maybe the master is from a power setup ? I'm sure that would screw things up big time..... anyone have pics of a non power master and a power master so I can compare the difference????

 

I don't believe there's any difference between power and manual master cylinders. I pulled my master and installed a booster behind it to convert to power, and from what I've read that's all you need to do.
even drum/drum vs. drum/disc masters are the same mostly, with just the prop valve below to make it work for drum/disc setups.

 

My 67 has very little travel is manual Drum/Drum. Maybe 3/4" travel till lock up. You have to stand on them for lockup with a good set of radials. That is fully restored and allowing the self adjusters to do the final adjustment. NO spongy feeling at all. After driving the 67 awhile then getting back in a modern car I notice power brakes feel very spongy.