I've got a couple leaky calipers in my '68 RS/SS Convert, and I'm looking for any thoughts on replacements. NAPA has both Proformer and Adaptive One remans for around $200 per side, and O'Reilly has a reman option for a little less. My rotors are in good shape, so I wouldn't have to replace them, but I've been considering the Wilwood bolt-on OEM replacement kit https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Br...+Brake+Spindle, wondering if it is a better quality and/or performing caliper, and for not much more money, it includes rotors and pads.

The car is a cruiser and will not see a ton of miles in the foreseeable future. I'm not looking for a serious performance upgrade and I definitely don't have an unlimited budget or a desire to make major mods. I'm looking something that will do the job well, and not start leaking in the next 10+ years with limited use. Any input is appreciated!

EDIT: I also found reproduction calipers with stainless sleeves from Classic Industries for about the same money as the remans. Would this possibly be my best, cost-effective solution? Any experience with those units or the Wilwood ones would be helpful info.

Thank you,
Scott

 

Best cost-effective way is to rebuild your current calipers. It is super easy to do. I would recommend it if the calipers are original. The 4 piston system is taken from the Corvette so they are the same as the early C3 maybe all C3 vets. You can do upgrades like Powder coat or painting them. Powder coating is much easier than you may think. You can get powder coating system from Harbor freight and buy a yard sale toaster oven.

Any old time GM tech has rebuilt hundreds of these calipers. When the vets where used every weekend and the fluid is not changed moisture built up in the fluid. This degrades the hydraulic fluid and cause rust. If you maintain the fluid the seals should last 20 years. Even then you should change them before they leak. You should also replace the hoses to the calipers and flush the brake system whenever you rebuild them.

IMO the Wilwood upgrade is overkill if you are sticking with the stock 15" wheels you not getting much more braking for the money and our rag tops are not really road rally cars. I don't know it you have pushed your car but it can be out handles by a 70's pickup. The ragtopare just too flexible. Big brakes are for road courses and controlling heat over long races.

The stainless steel calipers is a common upgrade for people that do not drive their cars much but what to be able to just jump in and go. A word of warning. You do not need to worry about rust but you still get moisture in your fluid and that effects the way the brakes work, If you ever go to a racetrack tech inspection will check your brakes fluid for moisture. If it above a certain level they will send you home. I just say that to show how much of a factor the moisture is. Also if you do the calipers you should do the metal lines they are subject to the same rust issues as the calipers. If you find a lot of rust in the calipers then you should do the metal lines.

What I would do if my 67 had that option? Rebuild the calipers powder coat them replace the master cylinder and all soft lines, flush the system with Dot 5 brake fluid install Dot 5 fluid and bleed. I would avoid the stainless-steel braided soft lines. They need to be replaces based on time. and there is no way to inspect the lines condition. They can make the brakes a little firmer. IMO they are a race car thing.

Never take the advice on any forms without back up research. Never trust a single youtube video either. It helps if it is an older video and the comment are on. People will tend to call people out. I still run into posts and videos posted by who think they know what they are talking about but really they are putting people in danger. I posted a sample video in this thread but you should do a search for others.

I did not watch the whole video. The Vetts are a pain in the butt to bleed but this is not the case with our cars. The problem with the Vetts is the way the metal brake lines are run. Vetts really should be power bleed. Now I like the power bleeders but could never justify one for home use. I use a brake vacuum system on my cars. But old school two man bleeding is fine for our cars.

 

Thanks. I am going to be checking with a local old-school brake company this week to look into rebuilding the calipers and machining for stainless sleeves. My dad (it was his car) replaced he master cylinder/booster and some of the lines only a few years ago, so I'll think about flushing and replacing with Dot 5. I've heard a couple negative things about Dot 5; I'm wondering if you or anyone else has a list of pros and cons (besides the moisture remedy).

Thanks again,
Scott

 

We used to convert police cars over to Dot 5 back pre-antilock brakes. I did it in the 80's. The reason I mention replacing the master cylinder is because cleaning and being sure there is Zero Dot 3/4 fluid left in it. Most of the people that have issues with Dot 5 is because they did not clean the system. The three advantages to Dot 5 is. No corrosion, much higher boiling point, Stiffer pedal. The downside I am aware of is, it does not mix with Dot 3 or Dot 4. That is an understatement, There is a chemical reaction between the two types that can cause brake failure. 3 and 4 can be mixed with each other. It is like mixing Anti-freeze and oil under pressure. It creates an acid. It must have something to do with the Glycol since both anti-freeze and Dot 3 and 4 brake fluid have it.

Our process for clean a new car.
Drain system, flush with mineral sprites, flush with dot 5 replace and bleed. We did not replace the master (I never agreed with that but we also never had a come back). this was done with a power Bleeder. The cop caprices came with heavier brakes but in a hilly/mountain area you could still overheat the brakes, those cars were heavy. If you ever had brake fluid boil on you then you know you have almost zero brakes. Once they get a gas in there from the boiling that gas will not support 900 PSI of hydraulic pressure and just works like a spring.

Again I doubt you plan on pushing your car but dot 5 it is a viable option for the street. After thinking more about the process, maybe you would just be better with a Dot 3/4 and change it every 4-5 years. If you did switch to Dot 5 you would have to keep an eye on who touch's your car. A label on the Master cylinder that said DOT 5 ONLY may help but some Someone not knowing tops off you brake system with Dot 3 and your whole system is screwed.

To anyone else reading this, If you have an aftermarket adjustable combination valve you should dissemble and clean it or replace it. I have not done one and I am not sure how well they flush.

 

I agree power coating can make the calipers pop and easy to clean with a regular car wash. I suggest getting a good explosion of the caliper to look for hidden rubber parts that will be destroyed in baking. Replacements may not come in a standard rebuild kit. I needed to remove deep rubber with a special Acura tool when powder coating & rebuilding the calipers on my NSX.