Hi there my name is Cody And I just signed up to this. I was loking forth introduction page as required from he site to introduce yourself per signing up.. but uh, I'm 32 from Washington state and have been wrenching on cars for the past 10years or so.. always have been DIY backyard mechanic never take a car to a shop type. and have even been the mechanic for places I have worked... so I like to think there isnt' anything I can't do with a car ,... money being the only real problem..

last year I bought a camaro with a blown motor. I did a restore on the car and have done nothing but work on it and work on it and.... ect...

anyway to get to the point I have completely rebuild the entire car. inside and out.

right now I have had the motor rebuilt a year ago, and most things around it have been upgraded or modified,

I have a 1996 Camaro Base Model 5-speed (the body) thats been heavily modified, meaning anything stock is gone and has been after marketed (12,000 dollars put into this thing, and upgraded, i'd say RS with H.O. 3.8L 250hp with 290ft lbs,

So i'v eonly put 2900 miles on this car, I am having a check engine light come on for the EGR code Pin-tile position error I dont' know the code number off the top of my head right now but.. I do know I have replaced the part 4 times. the 1 st code I noticed I had a leak in the tube, fixed that. and have continued to get the code, tried 3 different egr's sence and have continued over the course of a few runs at random times it keeps coming back on..

i'm running a brand new BWD (borg warner distribution) e.g.r (exhaust gas recirculation), Valve and I am still getting the code.. SOooooo I'm wondering if my computer relay to the positive wire may be bad and is no longer able to read the EGR sensor anymore and won't allow it to work properly? Or does the PCM/ECU need an actual dealership reprograming? if so what will that do to my rebuilt and upgrade engine? the car is NOT stock anymore...... what do I do how to I figure this out? why won't it go away after weeks of the battery even being out? (note I do not have the tools to test for things or read the computer)

I've considered trading the car in I can keep the light off long enough to do that but g damn it... spent a **** ton of money on this thing to just..... give it away.... or just run in it till it blows and get my fun out of it.... ....


thanks for reading this I know it was long.. I hope I gave enough to get some one an idea of what I mean.. and i'm hoping to find some one who has run inot this same code error problem and has a fix.

 

Question #1
What hardware did you upgrade to the engine to increase the HP 25 percent?

Question #2
How did you increase the HP 25% without getting the car tuned for those upgrades.

Question #3
If you did get a custom tune why the heck does the system still have EGR codes in it? You can easily program out ERG and EVAP codes, it is common practice. Heck you can just remove the whole EGR system, it will keep your intake much cleaner.

Once you start messing with engine internals you are messing with manifold vacuum, anytime you mess with manifold vacuum you can screw up emission stuff on the computer. Find a local guy with HP tune, Have him remove the EGR functions and codes, Done.....

 

Maybe not in Washington State.

 

Hello its good see you guys out there looking at peoples issues lol.

Yes Washington emissions.... lets see how do I say this without saying useless stuff.. Its a money issue right now. and not knowing exactly what the problem is, leaves me with too many options, I was hoping someone has ran into this same sensor problem... so I could just simplify the matter and hopefully just fix it myself.

Here is what I understand:

Rebuilt motor with no mileage usually will get bad MPG for a while,
So I can't blame the EGR for that even though its relative to it... which may or may not be the problem.

the engine is still new I still have piston slap going on when the car is cold it ticks/knocks until it reaches 135* and takes a completely different tone.... to which the knock/tap quiets down and then I have to really listen for it to hear it. the car also ( idk if this is new Re built motor stuff again) sits at 175-180* (per thermostat)......(stays while driving) if it sits for bout 10-15mins reaches 123* and never goes higher..... ( the electric fans have two speeds which don't kick on until well up over 200(they are designed that way i think 215 low speed and 220 for high) I don't know if my tempature ranges are related to the EGR problem and not moving the valve pin properly..... but I don't get a code while at idle. ( I know why i'm just stating the fact)

in theory: With the old part on it, and the code haven gotten stuck into the computer, could the computer not be able to delete/relearn itself because the new part isn't...the old part? that computer needs reset with a flashing/software upgrade? or has my power relay gone bad? in which case I need a new computer? ( I don't have a way to test this...

now if thats a yes... where would I FIND some one that would do this.... because of emissions in Washington state the car dealers don't want to touch it.... epically in this state.... and a tuner shop would work but I need the emission incase in the future I want to sell it.

I guess if anyone knows car computers how do I get the code gone PERMINITLY so it stops coming back on. I can delete it scan tool, I can leave the battery off for a week... I can even unplug the harness to it. it keeps coming back on during a drive.




:to awnser your hp questions I've done a lot to this car.. upgrades too: the headers 3-5, exhaust manifold 5-10, exhaust system 10-20, engine bores 1-3, air intakes 10-20, and entire ignition systems 3-10 , all in all, it added 45-55hp these are calculated estimates that I did the math too a year ago to figure this out. the bwhp I have no clue. all I know is i'm too light in the *** end now from a the weight reduction lol. #loose racecar.

 

must be in the big city,,, or king county. have not had to pass emissions in pacific or grays harbor counties ever. try a reset. unhook both battery cables and hold them together for a short while. 30 seconds or so and re connect in the proper places. this will reset all your on board computers. it will take a few runs for the computers to relearn the systems operation.

 

I am not sure where you are getting your information but this is not remotely true. I have rebuilt dozens of engines if not 100's since the 80's. MPG should be as good as new. There is no reason it should be low and piston slap comes from the piston being too small for the cylinder bore. The "slap" cause wear faster then normal so the piston will get smaller and the bore will get bigger and the slap louder as the engine ages.

Already answered, find someone that can tune the car and tune it out or fix the problem.



Headers are exhaust manifold? A 3800 with Headers and exhaust and a CAI will get you to about 220 hp at the crank, you can do anything you want to the ignition system and it will not add 1hp. No way are you hitting 250 hp without a new Cam. Most of your 20hp gains is from the headers. On the 3800 neither the air intake or the exhaust are really restrictive. If you are having MPG issue your car is still not running 100%.

 

back on topic...... So its been a while. and i'm still having the exact same issue. It passed emissions with no problem.. (needed tabs) tho I did just turn the check engine light off bout 30mins before going . Ofcourse a day later it comes back on.... ok got it to pass but its still not working right . I figured its not opening which is causing the spark/engine knock I continue to hear. has a NEW EGR on it so i figure the PCM/ECU isn't working right (might need a flash update) or the plug in is bad.. but i'm ruling that out do to when i just leave it uplugged check engine comes on right away.... so idk guess it down too i won't know till i have a shop take a look at it... until next time.....