Purchasing a 69 Camaro Z28 from the father-in-law who bought it at Barrett Jackson a couple years ago. He has never driven it that I know of so it's prime to be picked up and used.

Now the issues. It has the CPP big brake 4 wheel disc brake conversion with 255/15/17's on the back, CPP upper control arms, KYB adjustable shocks and Hotchkis 2 inch drop springs. the rear tires rub in a terrible way so much it really can't be driven anywhere.

The key can't be taken out despite following the procedure of putting it in reverse when parked or something like that. It won't turn back to remove, so any idea's with this small issue would be appreciated.

The car looks good but my experience with seeing many Barrett Jackson cars is they look good for the auction than aren't practical or are riddled with issues. I want to make it a practical cruiser for the wife and I. From what I learned through little research to get 15' wheels I need to have 11' rotors? I assume the spindle in the rear axle will accommodate this. I need to level the front, I assume adding proper springs will remedy this?

So, I guess am I looking at redoing the disc conversion kit? It has the CPP master also and from what I have seen CPP results are pretty hit or miss with a lot of misses. Personally, i want to get it back to stock appearance and would like to know best way to do this. I own a few Land cruisers and a 79 and 65 Ford but nothing in the Camaro lineage.

Thanks for any recommendations to make this beautiful car a practical rig for our new empty nester status!

 

Post some pics please "255/15/17" ?
Many variables at play here.

 

All I have are from Barrett Jackson website. I need to get some when I can get back to where it’s stored.

 

Only other pic of I have is of the rear tire and wheel. I was talking to someone locally who was trying to help with the rub.

 

Simply giving it normal gas causes the rears to rub but looks good! I contacted CPP how I can get 15" wheels on it and was told if 13" or 12" rotors they won't fit. I have to have 11" rotors. However, I have no idea how easy a swap this is or what the story is with their calipers fitting.

 

Nice looking car,I think you made a typo on the tire size (255/15/17" ?) perhaps 255/50/17?
At any rate if it were mine I think I'd ditch the 2" drop and go back to stock height springs.
Another option might be going lower profile tires like 40 series or 18" wheels with 30-35 series.

 

Yeah, little typo there I didn't comprehend last night as it had been long day. Is this a simple return to stock springs swap for starters? Stock height is what I want to get her back to. I will crawl under her when I am back in Tulsa to see if it has the 4 leak springs in back also.

We live in remote rural area where you have to drive down 3 miles of dirt gravel roads so if I can I will trailer it to the house once my shop is done then I can get some things done.

Hopefully pic comes through, this is what I’m looking for in the end.

 

Welcome to the forum

 

Welcome to the forum

 

The car you hear about that have a lot off issues right after the auction are built solely for the auction and how it looks on a stage is the most important thing. I have seen brand new spring heated to get a certain stance. They effectively ruined the springs by removing the temper out of the steel and make them prone to cracking. They also load the car up with all the "right" parts but never look at tweaking them to get them to work together as they should. That does not mean you should toss the parts. Tires rubbing in the back could be as simple as a small spacer to push the wheel out or a shackle replacement. A serious brake issue can sometimes be fixed by adding the correct or an adjustable proportioning valve.

I don't want to offend people but I use to say cars like these are built by a body man. Some body man have saying "if it looks right it is right". I am sure that is not true for all body man but I have seen some show winning paint jobs on cars I would not trust on a public road for safety reasons.

I agree with the above statement. There are simply to many things at play for us to look at in picture and for you to describe to us. You need to find a reputable Hot Rod shop or a small garage owner that likes this type of work. You will need to explain to him what exactly you want. There is a lot of knowledge here but we could spend a lot of time trying to help with an issue only to find out issue was some tiny thing that was missed based on a camera angle. Example: We could go over a bunch of stuff to get the rear to stop rubbing, then you take it to a mechanic and he tells you the rear is not mounted right or its not stock length. That was the original issue all along. You spend all the money trying to fix it yourself and it turns out all you needed was a one bolt in the rear. The car really needs gone over. Its a built car that never had a shake down run. There could be things wrong with it that have no effect on the drivers feel. I remember one car that had the transmission line looped so it would not leak. It fried the trans in a week. I also remember one that have no gear oil in the rear.

We can try to help but I good mechanic looking at the car on a lift for 5 minutes will know more then you could tell us in 50 posts. Even Movies are not as good a looking at the car.