I listened to the video again... I promise that is the noise....disreguard all that "rod" business I thought we were talking about that is 100% definitely lifter ruckus! Just put the valve covers back on and drive it they will reprime. The 6al is good. Provides greater spark and usually they allow for setting a ignition cutoff as opposed to the fuel cutoff that is in the stock pcm, just safer if you are running the car hard. The car in the video seemed to be running on all 8 without a misfire, are u experiencing a stutter under load? Where you get on it and then it comes to....like you pick up a cylinder?

 

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves

got the video to play and it sounds top end to me as well

 

It definitely sounds like a pushrod to me. I had some clatter when I bent one in my old camaro. Just feel all the pushrods and if one has a lot of play pull it out to see if it is bent. If it is just replace and you should be good to go.

 

rods=pushrods sory about that lol...i hope thats all it is, i removed the intake mani and one was able to go up and down slightly....im in the processs of cleaning everything up....

sanded and painted the intake mani, cleaned all the black carbon from the inner side of the throttle body and soaked it in carb cleaner over night....went ahead and bought a new water pump because im in there and it wasnt too bad on the budget. getting the 6al tomorrow morning. im debating if i should take the heads off and do new headgaskets seeing im this far already. as for the lifters and pushrods i was looking at stock replaements but theres soo many different types on summit any suggestions there?

i also have hooker lon tubes in my garage i want to put on so ill do the plugs when i have the exhaust manis off....it looks like i have to get rid of the egr system and looks like that would include the box that was mounted with te air hoses? not sure what that is...

im definately going to have to pm you about the lash adjusmtnents i have never done that before but i also have never worked on a v8 motor before...so i guess im doing pretty well....

 

oh and btw thanks!!!im working/busy for next cople days but hopefully tuesday ill be back at it working and make some $$ this eekend for more parts

 

what is your oil pressure at first start and at operating temp? i wouldnt get to carried away, taking the heads off is more than it looks like. if the oil is good and u dont have issues that point to a head gasket use the time and money on something else. if u think there is issues with the opti change the whole thing. dont do the cap and rotor thing, it costs almost as much as an opti.

 

oddly the oil pressure was always fine, until the day it started to over heat and then when i oushed the gas pedal it would rise up and when i was about to shut it off it fell alot. so i also thinking about a new oil pump, but thats another think i have to look up and see how to do it.

 

i figured i clean up the engine bay a little as i have everyting torn apart, thinking about painting the valcve covers black again. heres my cleaned up painted mani and new waterpump.

as far as mechanics go im going to take of the exhaust manifolds and put in new plugs and install the long tube headers i have. also going to try to get an new opti by next week but im going skydiving sunday, thats the same price as the opti from summit i want.....i need a fix my car fund soon anyone want to donate?lol.

 

I will donate some advice LOL. The water pumps rarely fail, people usually replace them because they can't get the system bled, they have a metal impeller (take out the 6 bolts in the front and have a peep) and the only thing there to fail is the bearing in the rear. Don't waste money on anything other than the GM Opti...the others will not last (Accel, MSD). About the headers...I could not get long tube headers to fit on my car without pulling the motor, tying them to the side of the engine bay and putting the motor in after they were in. THey simply won't squeeze past. Maybe someone else can testify to that. Easiest just to break the motor mounts loose and lift the motor far enough to slide them in. As far as oil pressure goes...the LT1s that I have dealt with never had great oil pressure. 5psi is plenty on a hot day after running hard. If you just wanna change it to change it, you should go with the melling high volume, not high pressure and you will have to remove the oil pan, windage tray and then the pump is easy to get to, be careful not to drop the oil pump drive shaft (for lack of better term) to the drive up above. Change the pump, Then I recommend priming the pump. Go to the top of the motor and at the rear by the oil sending unit, under the manifold you will see the oil pump drive held in place by one bolt. Remove that bolt and take it out. get a drill, an extension a 1/2" socket [(I think that is the size I use) if not use whatever size a dime fits snuggly into] and an adapter so you can turn the extension with the drill. beat a dime into the socket (refer to the bottom of the oil pump drive and you will see what we are trying to accomplish) and attach it to the extension....that is how to make the tool to prime the pump. Remove the oil sending unit, put the apparatus down into the hole and fit it onto the spline. Operate the drill until oil comes out of the passage to the oil sending unit. congrats you primed the pump. Replace the sending unit and oil pump drive and lock-tite that bolt that holds it in.

 

intake looks nice, are you going to have it powder coated. works great and lasts way longer than paint. one more ? what wt of oil are you using? u can go to a little thicker wt to bring the pressure up for the short run. i replaced my water pump because i didnt want it pissin on my 400 dollar opti if it went bad so i can understand y u would want to change pump if your changing the opti. i had good oil pressure in my 93 then it started dropping to about 10 lbs at idle (thats with 10w30 wt oil) and at operating temp. when it did this the lifters started to clatter at idle. at the time i was changing the pan gasket anyways cause it was hard as a rock and leaking a little. so sence i was taking the pan out i changed the pump to a high volume, high pressure pump. that took care of the lifter clatter and at operating temp my pressure was at 65lbs at above idle and 25lbs at idle. my first 93 held the oil pressure at 60 lbs no matter what the temp or rpms. the oil pump change is not easy, u have to lift the front of the motor as high as u can, take the starter out and a few other things need to be moved. i did not prime the oil pump on the motor when i changed the oil pump and it was fine. the oil is already in the oil passages and such so i dont think its needed like on a new motor. u may have to lift the motor to get the lt headers in and u may not. if u have a car lift so u can get the car up in the air then ive heard the headers will go in easier. not to say they are an easy project. well worth it though.