M6 tranny, and the clutch switch works. I mean that with the clutch out the starter won't even make a noise(like it is supposed to do). With the clutch in, then just a solid clicking sound.
I am working today so I can't get to it until tomorrow. The heat here is supposed to be unbearable for the next 4 days. UGH!

 

only other thing i can think of is a bad battery cable or dirty battery terminal or cable end. battery terminals can get a coating on them that looks like lead but is a hard crust that limits the amps that can get through.

 

Update: Problem fixed.
Checked the heavier gauge wire of the small wires going to the solenoid. 10 volts while the solenoid is engaged. 12 volts when it is not attatched to the starter, just with the key in the start position. Seems normal. Starter spins fine now.
Dilemma: what is the smaller gauge wire wire for? When it is attatched to the solenoid the voltage to that terminal goes to 5.7 volt. I cannot remember if it was attatched on not when I disassembled the motor.
Oh BTW I got the motor to cough like it wanted to fire.

 

what color is it? theres a ground there in front of the starter on the block, is there any way thats where it goes?

 

Took a look at the wiring diagram for your car, and it only shows 2 wires going to the starter solenoid. One being the battery cable, and the other a purple wire coming from the theft deterrent relay.

 

It turns out the wire is Black with a white stripe.
I read where it is the ground from the pcm. Well, I grounded it guess what? Clicking again. Disconnected it, starter works fine.
Now I just need to figure out why it isn't firing but 1 time every revolution.

 

that is also the ground for the vats, oil level sensor, data link connector, fuel pump relay.

 

^^ Hmm, could by why the engine won't run.

 

Thanks Craby, that truly explains alot.
OK, I remounted the ground wire in a different area. I had it originally on the ground post on the starter. I don't know why it would make the starter just click, but placing it in a different area has allowed me to ground it finally.
I did all the Opti electrical test, it checks out.
I did the ICM tests it, but that just tells me about the computer, not the ICM itself. BTW they were ok too.
I tested the coil and it was ok too.
My fuel pump is pretty quuiet. When I ran the prime wire to 12v source I could hear the fuel flowing through the fuel lines but not the pump running, so I can't tell if the fuel pump is running when I try to start or not.
Next I'm gonna pull a plug wire to see if I have fire. I know I have it occasionally, it sounds as though it is firing on 1 cylinder when I crank it. I hear it fire what sounds like 1 time every revolution. After it sits for a few hours it will fire in 2 or 3 cyls but then just fires 1 time.
I guess I'll buy a pressure gauge and shrader valve to check the fuel pressure situation. BTW this car ran before I took the engine out for a rebuild.

 

i would check the fuel pressure first. by the way the shrader valve should already be on your fuel line at the back of the intake manifold on the passenger side. the parts store may have a pressure gage you can rent or borrow with a deposit.